Draco1962

Have you tried using a different theme? Instead of Default-Media Center, try Default-Default. Same issue? Just for testing, disable ALL active plugins. Same issue? Let us know how you get on with your testing and provide updated copies of your gameex.ini and log.txt files. As Tom noted, he doesn't have access to the source code for the plugins, as Infoz and Marquee Masher are creations, and he has not been supporting them for several years now.

Are you gonna try it?

That is awesome! Love the repair-reuse! I sold the Lenovo ideacenter C40-05 AIO Type F0B5 to a friend of mine after a little cleanup. I added a WiFi 6/BT 5.3 dongle to it after he got it home and it would not connect to his router - old Realtek card with the AIO compatibility issue. His wife is using it with a laser engraver and Cricut setup, so speed and mass storage is not an issue, although it does launch much quicker with the 500GB SSD + Windows 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC I installed. I took a little bit of a financial loss, but my buddy has helped me with a few chores about the house here and there that required an extra back and muscles I don't have, so well worth it considering I haven't had to pay someone else to do it. For the Intel BOXNUC8i7HNKQC1 are you able to upgrade the RAM? I wonder how it would fare as a DIY Steam Machine using Bazzite? Since it is AMD Vega GPU, SteamOS would probably not work out since it does not have support for older AMD GPUs, but Bazzite does! See what I am doing here?

I went ahead and bought one as my 360 and One have HDMI and this will help me in replacing my current multi-device component/HDMI device switch. The current solution works, but is limited to 3 devices and requires manually switching between as the remote never really worked well.

I replaced the Asus P8Z77-V LK motherboard with an MSI Z77A-GD65 as the first two DIMM slots failed. At first I thought it might be an issue with the socket (a possible bent pin?) but this was not the issue. The CPU works well in the replacement board. The Asus P8Z77-V LK was originally from my mini-pincab that got tickled by a voltage spike a while back, so I am only surprised that it still worked at all! So a mobo eventually bound for the e-waste bin.

Per the video author "In this video, I put that question to the test by trying to install SteamOS on one of the most iconic gaming desktops of its time: the Dell Alienware Aurora R4. Powered by an Intel Core i7-3930K and the legendary GTX Titan, this machine was once a dream PC for gamers. But after more than a decade, can SteamOS bring it back to life for modern gaming?"

Change is a-comin'! Will have to wait until 2027 probably. Valve Brings Official SteamOS Support to NVIDIA Desktop GPUs I do not hold out much hope for older Nvidia drivers, whereas AMD support from the Linux open-source drivers shines.

I am about to make a few changes to my setup for the tower of Xboxes - how is this working out for you?

Anytime! Your issue was an easy one for Gemini AI to suss-out. I simply fed it a series of queries: First, I asked Gemini "What are the default button assignments of the Logitech F710 vs Xbox controller?" to which it gave me a lot of detail regarding Xinpu and Dinput, how the controllers are seen respectively, etc. Second, I provided Gemini the url to the original post, asked it "In PinballX post, Logitech F710 Left Shoulder Button is exiting game back to PinballX menu - Left shoulder button on game controllers exits back to PBX" The first query was essential for establishing a foundation, the second zeroed-in.

Definitely need to see the pinballx.ini and log.txt files as Scutters noted. Also, I ran this post by Gemini AI, and following is the response (and hence why I asked if you had an Xbox controller to test): That specific issue pops up because of how PinballX defaults its global exit parameters and how standard controllers report their hardware IDs. When a Logitech F710 is set to DirectInput (D) mode, the physical Left Shoulder (LB) button is registered by Windows as Button 5. By default, PinballX often maps Joystick Button 5 as a global, hardcoded command to Exit Emulator / Return to Menu. Because PinballX forces this layout globally unless told otherwise, the moment you press the Left Shoulder button in any emulator launched through it (whether it's Visual Pinball, a PlayStation 2 emulator, or retro console setups), PinballX intercepts the input, kills the active emulator process instantly, and drops you back to the wheel. This completely breaks games where LB/L2 is a critical function. How to Fix It You need to remap or disable the global joystick exit binding inside the PinballX configuration tool: Close PinballX completely. Open the PinballX Settings Application (Settings.exe in your installation folder). Navigate to the Joystick Settings section. Look for the binding labeled Exit / Quit (or "Exit Emulator"). You will likely see it assigned to Button 5. Clear this assignment, change it to a button combination you'll never accidentally hit during gameplay (like clicking both analog sticks simultaneously), or map it to a dedicated cabinet button instead. Save and exit, then relaunch PinballX. If you are running the F710 in XInput (X) mode, standard Xbox controllers don't usually default to LB for exit, but if the mapping profile inside PinballX was manually assigned to Button 5 in the past, it will exhibit the exact same behavior. Clearing the joystick mapping out of the frontend's main controller profile fixes the issue across all of your underlying emulators.

How about with Xbox or other controllers?

I am putting this project on hold for now. Given the state of the economy, escalation of hardware costs, and limited funds, I simply cannot get this project moving, much less across the finish line. I've received a few hardware donations but they are insufficient for this build. In most cases, the hardware falls outside of minimum requirements for the project. I informed the donors that I will be putting most of the hardware up for sale on Facebook Marketplace. I do not expect to make much, if anything, but will put aside what I earn from the sales and will add to the project at a later time, should things turn around in the near to mid future. Thanks again for your interest & encouragement!

I think the JayZ rant sums it up. Valve moved too slow and when it came time to put out the kit, they were priced out.

And JayZ's two cents -

If you have a strong PC running Windows, you do not need to run Bazzite or SteamOS, and, with a great frontend, you have almost all you need to create a near console-like experience! As I am exploring Bazzite via my Atari VCS build, I have noted that not all things are equal, with some overhead caused by Proton Windows emulation, sacrificing some FPS along the way. YMMV depending upon the program, Proton version, etc.

The Steam Machine's Price Went Up Due to RAM Shortages I saw that one thing they did was install single channel DDR5. 😮 I've also heard there are talks between Valve and Nvidia to increase compatibility between the hardware and SteamOS. Based upon the anticipated pricing in the article, if you have a Radeon GPU you can build your own system running Bazzite.

More Galactic Racer Reviews: Still not seeing any physical media available in the US for PC pre-order. 🤬

"He makes some good points, but he didn't have to be a dick about it!" 🤪

P.S. Good job, everyone and thanks!

For the sake of clarity and to avoid confusion or questions, I made a needed update to the guide by deleting the posts with quotes and references to the batch and other files that are no longer required.

Bobby Prince, composer of many legacy PC games over the ages passed away June 16, 2026. Amongst his creations were the soundtracks of Commander Keen, Doom, Duke Nukem, and many more.

P.P.S. Just for gits & shiggles, I renamed my project the Atari VCS 1600 Build. The Atari VCS had several versions, each with different faces. What determined the 400 or 800 designation was the amount of RAM. The 400 shipped with 4GB DDR4 while the Backers Edition sold with 8GB DDR4. It is possible to upgrade to 32GB, but the GPU is limited to 4GB, leaving 28GB on the table for the OS and apps. At today's prices, I think I will hold at 16GB - $300+ for 32GB (2x16GB) sticks my ass! Interesting discussion about RAM upgrades on AtariAge.

Anyone have any luck using Steam Controller (2015) BLE? I am experimenting with this and will report back with my findings. I want to be able to use this on my Atari VCS 800 (Should I rename it to Atari VCS 1600 since I doubled the RAM? 🙃) under Bazzite? It says Ubuntu and SteamOS supports it, so it should be OK. I think there may be some hurdles just getting it to work via Windows. Pasting the content here just in case it is eventually removed from the Steam site: Steam Controller (2015) BLE Bluetooth Low Energy Firmware FAQ You can now add Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) functionality to your Steam Controller. This feature is required to enjoy the Steam Link app, but may provide benefit in other use cases as well. This FAQ describes what this BLE connection can and cannot do compared to the original wireless solution, steps to update your controller to add BLE support, and how to switch between wireless modes once the update is installed. When to use Bluetooth? How do I install this Firmware? How do I switch modes? When is it a good idea to use Bluetooth? You'll want to use BLE mode when: Streaming games to your iOS and Android devices with the Steam Link app. Connecting your Steam Controller to a tablet or laptop without a USB port. You just can't find your Steam Controller Wireless Receiver. Otherwise we suggesting sticking with the original protocol. It provides the fastest connection, with low-latency support for up to four controllers per receiver, and works across all major operating systems. The BLE connection is excellent, but the native wireless protocol was designed from the ground up to provide the best experience for a Steam Controller. How do I install this firmware? Be aware that the original wireless mode will still be available after adding Bluetooth support. However, the update process will clear all pairings, so you will need to reconnect your wireless receiver to your controller. The steps below guide you through the update and pairing process. Download the firmware update tool on Windows and unzip it Plug in your Steam Controller. Run ble.bat to update the firmware Unplug your controller. Select the Add a Steam Controller button on the Controller Settings page. This option only appears if a Wireless Receiver is currently plugged in. Press X + Steam Button on your controller and enter the 4 character Validation Code that appears on the screen. Congrats! You have reconnected your controller to the Wireless Receiver. Next, connect over BLE by navigating to the Add Bluetooth option of your device. When prompted, press Y + Steam Button on your Steam Controller to make it discoverable. How do I switch between modes? If you have already followed the instructions above, you are paired via the Steam Controller Wireless Receiver and BLE. Use the commands below to start your controller in the mode of your choice. Bluetooth LE Pairing Mode You’ll need to do this in order to use the Steam Link app Switch to Bluetooth LE mode Launches controller in BLE mode Receiver Pairing Mode Pair your controller to a new receiver Switch to dongle mode Use your controller in Original Receiver Mode Pairing to Multiple Devices The Steam Controller BLE firmware can store two Bluetooth connections. Connect to the most recently used Bluetooth device by pressing Steam+B. Connect to the second stored Bluetooth connection by pressing Steam+Start. The firmware can also store multiple wireless receiver connections. Connect to the most recently used wireless receiver by pressing Steam+A. Connect to a different stored wireless receiver by pressing Steam+Back. Powering up with the Steam button only will connect you to the most recently used device and pairing mode Supported Operating Systems Bluetooth connectivity is supported in: Windows 10/11 macOS Ubuntu SteamOS

My former employer's accounting department got approval and implemented an accounting software suite that had to be run from our servers, but had NO SERVICES that could be scheduled for certain updates. To top it off, once the application ran as a background process. This meant that we could not leverage Task Scheduler to launch and kill the process that needed to be run every morning before 6AM to import the files that were needed by our policy & claims check printing team. Additionally, they did not want the Accounting BAs to have access to the server to manually run them. This meant MY TEAM had to login to the server every morning before 6AM to kick it off. Long story short, I created and compiled an AHK script that would be seen as an active process by Windows Server and, thus, scheduled, automating the process. Since the app was being run by an approved service account, there was no additional access required. They didn't know what AHK was, our security team squashed it quickly out of total ignorance, and they spent 6 months with our "Automation Team" trying to create an AI bot that could handle the process, which was also squashed by our IT security team because it had to leverage the service account as a user with security credentials. I identified the issue, tested a hypothesis, and came up with a secure solution - All within 2 weeks. NOPE! 😡 They spent 6+ months and came up with nothing. 🤬