tthurman

https://arcadeblogger.com/2022/07/04/celebrating-ataris-50th-anniversary/ The oldest footage I've ever seen.

Saw this show last night and can tell you the video below doesn't come close to doing it justice. The sound, vibe and stage presence was amazing, like stepping back in time. If you get a chance to catch this near you then don't miss it.

I missed this news last month, but evidently this just suddenly appeared on the internet achieve. https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2022/05/after-30-years-the-world-can-now-play-the-lost-marble-madness-ii/ ....and who better than Haze to bring it to the masses!

The Arcade Blogger Today marks the 50th Anniversary of the creation of the Atari Brand, by founders Nolan Bushnell and Ted Dabney.

Yeah, I seem to recall a recent post about just that, perhaps Tom has enabled that or a similar feature ...

Honestly I haven't played with it, instead just remember Tom posting about it. Look in "Display Settings" > "Interface Mode" in the Setup Wizard.

I'm not sure this is exactly what you are looking for, but it's worth a look.

Oh I missed that you intended to do this while in place. You certainly have steadier hands than I do. Nice work!

This is probably something along the lines of melamine. Tape will help, but you may be able to limit it even more with some different techniques. A high tooth count blade is an absolute must, the higher the better and a blade for fine wood cutting. This may limit it, but things will still be going against you. The reciprocating action of these type cutting tools combined with the "flex" the blade itself has makes this very difficult to do without some tear out. There is also no kerf on these saws to assist the blade staying perpendicular to the work surface, which makes them more prone to flexing. If I could make a suggestion it would be to test an area you're going to cut out anyway with the below ideas. Use a utility knife with a new blade and score the laminate where you intend to cut it. Extend or redo your current tape to include longer and finer drawn lines so that you can see it with a sacrificial board placed over it. Position this bruise board (any flat 1/4, 3/8.... pine/plywood etc. scrap wood you have and clamp the two together on at least the top surface or bottom if your cutting upside down) and use the extended lines you drew to strike out a line on the bruise board as a cutting guide. The bruise board will keep pressure a on top of the laminate surface, which will minimize flaking and tearing on the upstrokes of the blade, since it is being forced to stay down and has nowhere to move as a result of the blade action. Every other blade tooth is angled toward the laminate on the blade during the upstroke, which will create a "picking" effect in rapid succession, the above will limit that since the laminate itself is trapped between the two pieces of wood. These give some idea of what I'm trying to describe above.

Excellent work! I love these build threads, so cool to see what everyone is doing and the different methods they use to achieve the same end goal. Thanks!

Sorry dude, I somehow missed this It's good to see you posting!

The factory footage detail is crazy, don't get bored and give up on it!

This is just a snip of what you can find here.

You did alright with the 970 Evo Plus, I bought two of them when faced with the same decision last year. https://www.minitool.com/backup-tips/980-pro-vs-970-evo-plus.html Everything looks really nice! I hope you are doing well <edit> Linked the wrong review.

I would agree when used inside of a pincab but with my Frankenstein style build it won't be lifted except to remove and replace. It simply spans the distance from pedestal to the display stand on a set of "Pinball X" flippers.

My final solution was in fact to use gravity. I'm using a piece of cable runway bolted on a wooden mount I built that is pitched for the playfield. I will be using a VESA multi-adapter that will screw into square wood that fits exactly into the cable runway openings. Once mounted to the TV it will just drop in and can't go anywhere, we'll unless you flip it over. I got the idea based the idea off a French cleat. There are all sorts of variants and ways to make these, even locking styles. I must half a dozen or more mounts that I attempted to integrate along the way.

Nice, I think you'll like the "depth" of the new playfield. That's something I'm still struggling with on my crazy design.

Not sure if this helps, but Amazon has a decent selection. https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Binding-Screw-Post/zgbs/office-products/490548011

We used that style for some custom bound assemblies back when I was in the commercial printing business, but I have no idea where they sourced them. I've also never seen one that was completely smooth on one side, not to suggest they don't make them like that. https://www.rivetsonline.com/binder-post-barrel-nuts-chicago-screws https://www.mcmaster.com/chicago-bolts/ https://www.fastenright.com/products/general-fixings/sex-bolts-barrel-nuts https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt arch series screws architectural sex bolts barrel bolts barrel nut binding posts Chicago screws book screws connector bolts display fasteners door closure bolts furniture screws grommet nuts interscrews panel fasteners partition screws post and screw sets screw nuts sex bolt sleeve nuts stationary screws. threaded rivets