Draco is spot on with the tempered suggestion, it is much more resiliant to pressure, and of course if it does break, it will be lots of tiny pieces, not sharp shards! It will cost a bit more, and you may need a pattern, but in the end you'll be much better off with it for numerous other reasons as well. Find yourself a good local glass shop and they should be able to get anything you need, but you will need to order it, so be sure to allocate time for delivery. That looks like cabinet grade red oak plywood to me, something I've used many times over the years. One thing that I know looks great is Band-It edging, but it takes patience to work with. I've used both birch and red oak variants with great (IMO) success. I can post pics if you like, but it's really pretty much just a glue on veneer, and it's real stuff that has a heavy glue bed that saturates the plywood edge it is being applied to. Another optioin is to grab some T-Molding in the color of your choice and the appropriate router bits to cut the groves needed to adhere the T-mold. This is really only a good option if you have access to the tools to do this, unless you just want a router anyway that is. I'm planning to do this on my pedestal build, and once I get past some health hurdles I'm going through, I can report back with how it went. You'll probably be done by then though As far as finishing, I'm a big fan of satin clear finish coatings, and have done numerous projects with Minwax and Cabot's poly's with great results. Problem is, they are a real pain to clean up and prep between finishes, and breathing the VOC's sucks. Due to this I'd strongly suggest Formby's or Minwax Tongue oil finishes or the like, I just happen to have the most experience with these two products. Note that these are really wiping varnishes, tongue oil is really a loose refrence here as to what the outcome appearenace is, as pure tongue oil takes forever to set up, and doesn't have the resiliancy of varnish based variants. If your going for a multi-sided piece, take your time and do one side at a time, but if everything is glued, screwed and assembled, don't worry so much, you can do it all at once as long as you don't let things set up before wiping off the excess. Wipe it on, let it stand for several minutes, and wipe it off. After drying, buff with extra fine (00000) steel wool, clean with a shop vac, followed with a tack cloth cleaning, and repeat. Usually a minimum of three coats is what I'd recommend. This sounds like a lot of work, but compared to poly-urethane, the results are very similar, and brush strokes/bubbles are something you will not be concerned with. If you glue at all, Tiebond III is my all around favorite. Be certain to wipe off any that gets onto a surface you wish to finish, and do so multple times with a clean wet sponge. (disclaimer, you likely know much or all of this already )