hansolo77

Day 11 - Bummer Man I must really have the worst luck of anybody. Order this Mausberry Circuit, wait and wait, then USPS updates the tracking to say it will be delivered today rather than Tuesday. Then I get home, have it, take pictures, get all excited. I go through a 90-minute ordeal trying to install pin header posts to it. My soldering iron sucks, and the tip is all corroded beyond good use (there's like 1 little millimeter available that is still silvery and not black (and yes, I've tried to clean it)) and the only solder I can find is this really crappy thick stuff that is used more for a soldering GUN than a needle iron. Anyway, 90-minutes out and everything is soldered on. Hook up the appropriate wires, plug it in, and 'SNAP!'... there goes the USB plug. The connector on the circuit itself snapped off right when I plugged in the power. So this thing is now completely useless. $20 total spent including shipping, and I have nothing to show for it. I sent Mausberry an email, maybe they can replace it for me. I also asked if they would be willing to attach some pin headers for me since I had such a hard time with this. They probably won't, but hopefully they can at least replace it. So now it's another waiting game. Before I went to work today, I added some more ROMs to the drive. Sega Genesis and 32x. When I play tested them though, I discovered the default mapping of the controller wasn't right. The Sega's A button is supposed to be mapped to X on the Xbox controller. Instead it was mapped to Y. The C button is supposed to be mapped to B, but instead it was mapped to Right Bumper. I don't know what happened, but I had to remap the controller. Rather than do it in RetroArch (which would make it only work that one time because for some reason (superuser requirements I'd imagine) it doesn't save the config when you exit) I decided to remap it from EmulationStation's side. Every time I mapped it correctly, it came back in the various games as incorrectly mapped for Sega. So I had to re-think the way they do their mapping. They say "press a button for A" and I press button A on the controller. In fact, this is backwards. They want you to press a button for A as if you were using a Super Nintendo controller. I don't know why that is, because Nintendo has their controller buttons backwards.. BA, YX. And they're the only system (out of a lot of others) that does that. So in my opinion, this is a stupid way to map controllers. But by reversing them, I was able to get the Sega games to be mapped properly. The negative side of this now is that all the button mappings for everything else is wrong. I might ask in the forums if there is a better way.

Day 10 Update - Nothing The package didn't arrive yet. So no Mausberry circuit to play with. https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction_input?qtc_tLabels1=9400110200828189250732 The tracker says it's in transit to the destination, with an expected delivery of TODAY but it wasn't here. I came home and asked if we even got any mail today, and they said there was an Ad, and a Box. The Box wasn't for me though lol. So hopefully it'll arrive tomorrow. At least USPS doesn't show it's been delivered yet. Since I had to update all the GOTM threads in the High Score Competition forum today, I didn't really have time tonight to do anything with my project. I haven't even eaten dinner yet, so I'm going to go do that now, then go to bed. Tomorrow is a night shift, so I won't be home until late again, so don't expect any new updates then either. But at the very least I'll let everybody know if the package shows up.

Happy Birthday Buddy!

All streaming addons are going to be "gray zone". While it's not illegal to watch streaming, it is illegal to OWN the data, so many of the hosts that have the videos get shut down. This makes it a little difficult some times to find what you want to watch. The addons themselves are perfectly legal, and you're not breaking any laws by watching content provided by others, but the locations the streams exist on may or may not be completely "legit". A good place to start is TVADDONS.AG. I put that in caps, and the AG bit is true. But I won't hotlink from here, just in case. However, here are a couple of good addons to whet your appetite... Exodus - This addon gives you the option of BROWSING for TV Shows and Movies AND the ability to SEARCH. They categorize everything, so you can look for a show by Network (ABC/CBS/FOX/etc) or by Genre (Action/Mystery/SciFi/etc) or by Popular/People Currently Watching/Year/Actor, etc. You can browse for movies the same way, by Production Company/Actors/Years..what's NEW, What People are Currently Watching, etc. If you can't find what you want by browsing, you can SEARCH for the Title of a Movie/TV Show, or Actors. The way this all works, the addon basically does a GOOGLE search on whatever you decide to watch, then presents you with a list of available streams and it's up to you to pick the one you want to watch from. It's not really using Google, and the searches are limited to a list of about 20 or so hosters, but that's the basic idea of how it works. The best part is, if you create and associate a Trakt.TV account with Exodus, you can configure it to keep track of your shows/movies you want to watch, and it'll keep track of what you've seen so don't watch the same episode over again, etc. I love this, and my dad loves it even more (enough that he doesn't even watch stuff on my homeserver anymore, he just streams!). VidTime - This addon is great for sports. NHL Season just started, and this addon has LIVE streaming games with Home and Away commentary (pick your game, and chose whose commentary you want to hear!). They even have a 3rd option for some games with a 3-way cam; the regular TV camera, and then a direct overhead camera of each goalie. That's kinda neat. If Hockey isn't your fancy, they also have College and Pro Football, MLB, College/Pro Basketball, Racing, Soccer, etc. It's all categorized. And if you missed a game, chances are it's available in their Replays. Wanna see last night's World Series game? It's on there! And it streams just about everything at 5000k 720p HighDef. Can't go wrong with that. I can speak specifically for the NHL games.. they actually have a hook which connects your device through a VPN tunnel to NHL.com's website for their streams. This is why I say not many of these addons are strictly "legit" so they sort of have a hack way of doing things (this isn't really a hack though, somebody bought a subscription to their service and provides the URL links through the VPN to the rest of the community. So even though somebody paid for it, we're just piggybacking off his account, which NHL might not like). cCloud TV - This is a Live TV streaming addon. Nothing non-legit here. These are streams freely available to anybody. The only problem here is that there is no guide, and no way to record or rewind. A lot of TV networks have their own .com webspace, and offer free streaming of whatever is on currently if you simply turned on the TV. These sites offer this service to users who might be say, at work or out camping, etc. It would otherwise require you to connect to their website and watch it in a browser. All this addon does is eliminate the need for a browser. And there are THOUSANDS of streams out there for you to choose from. The nice thing about cCloud is the addon has user-generated lists for content. So if a video stream is no longer available, somebody reports it and it gets removed. If somebody finds a new one, they post it to the website and it gets added to the list. So it's always being pruned and updated. VideoDevil - This is a great addon if you're an adult (wink-wink). Without going into too much detail, it basically works by providing access to videos from various websites. You start at the top level, pick a website, then can browse for videos to watch. The first videos it shows is whatever the most recent is. Then you can go further back through the pages, or SEARCH if the website has that option, or BROWSE for certain categories, etc. It all works as if you're sitting in front of your computer, in a browser, but just cuts the browser out and lets you watch videos from your couch or bed. Very handy. There's always stuff to find. If you really like Kodi, I also recommend getting the GameStarter addon, and a copy of IARL (Internet Archive ROM Launcher). IARL gives you access to the Internet Archive's supply of legit-to-run games, sorted by console/system. GameStarter takes over once you select a game, and launches the game in RetroArch. When you're done playing, GameStarter returns you back to Kodi. IARL will only download the ROM you chose to play (and any additionally required files) then erases the file(s) when you're done playing. This saves you lots of space on your storage device (a small SD card in the case of the Raspberry Pi).

Updated Leaderboard to show new movements since last update. @patrickfx - Don't get discouraged because you're low on the totem poll. You only played 1 game so far. Play more games, and your placement will shoot up! You don't have to be really good either. This board calculates your position based on how many games you play AND the placement on them, so even if you're not GREAT at some games, you'll still have the opportunity to earn 10 points for each game you play as long as you get at least 10th place, and there are SO MANY GAMES that don't have 10 players posted yet. So get on it!

You Voted, Here's the November 2016 GOTM!!! Tiger Heli was suggested by @Mame Offender back in March 2016 . It was won by a vote of 6 out of 9 possible voters. So clearly a fan favorite. Thanks to everybody who participated in last month's GOTM Track & Field. We had a nice 8-player turn out. Not what we used to have, but much better than what we've seen recently, so thanks a lot. It's also nice to see based on the other results of the poll that by far the biggest reason nobody is playing is due to lack of time to actually make the effort. There were a few other possibilities, like the games being too hard, the top players being too good, or just the fact that they didn't like the games. Please keep in mind that this is just a fan controlled high score board. There are no prizes. So there's no reason to participate other than just to have fun. If you feel like you have to cheat to post big scores, don't bother. It doesn't gain you anything but self disrespect. I understand the lack of time.. We all have lives and other hobbies. Summer is a big time for vacationing and spending those vacations with family, so don't sweat it. The boards are here whenever you feel like you wanna play and compete. If you don't like the games we have, please give us ideas for others you'd love to see instead on our REQUEST thread because that's what it's there for! And remember, you don't HAVE to play the monthly GOTM if you don't want to. We now have 110 games in our collection, something for everybody. So no reason why you can't improve a previously posted score, or beat a previous GOTM winner. We actually encourage that! If you think the game is too hard, join the club lol. I suck at most of these games, but that doesn't keep me from wanting to play. I have the same limitations as far as time, but I still want to post up a score, if only for history's sake so I can come back and beat it in the future. So without further ado, let's get our game on! Tiger-Heli (タイガー・ヘリ?) is a 1985 scrolling shooter developed by Toaplan and published by Taito for the arcades. It is a predecessor to Twin Cobra. The player controls the helicopter "Tiger-Heli" in a fight against various enemies. The game is a vertical scrolling shooter where the player controls a helicopter taking on hordes of enemies which include tanks, battleships, and artillery. It is interesting to note that, besides some airplanes taking off, there are no flying enemies in the entire game. The player's main weapon is an unlimited supply of missiles that travel a max distance of half the screen's height. The player also has two bombs which destroy all objects within a large circular radius. These bombs can be blown off by enemy bullets. The player is killed after only one hit, and is re-spawned to a point approximately one whole vertical screen-length later, thus progressing the player past the obstacle that had killed him, albeit at a high cost. The player is given three lives initially and bonus lives are awarded at 20000 points and every 80000 points thereafter. Flashing crosses scattered throughout each level award players power-ups depending on which color the cross is. A red cross will gives the player one side-firing mini-heli which shoots perpendicular to the player's helicopter. A white cross yields a forward firing mini-heli. It is possible to have a mix and match of side-helis, totaling no more than two. The green cross will award the player with an additional bomb, if the player currently has less than two. Grabbing power-ups when not necessary yields 5000 points. There are a total of four stages, all of which start and end with a helipad. After completion of the last stage, the game will restart in a more difficult mode starting on stage 2. Most of the game's areas contain unnecessary objects to destroy for bonus points, such as oil drums and houses. This was uncharacteristic for shoot 'em ups at the time. In 1986, a Nintendo Entertainment System port of Tiger-Heli was released in Japan, developed by Micronics and distributed by Pony Canyon. It was later released in North America by Acclaim Entertainment, where it sold one million copies.[1] In 1995, Banpresto released Toaplan Shooting Battle 1 for the PlayStation, a compilation of Tiger-Heli and Twin Cobra. Tiger-Heli had two sequels, Twin Cobra and Twin Cobra II. In addition, the Tiger-Heli craft makes an appearance in Let's! TV play classic series in Slap Fight Tiger as an alternative to the default aircraft Leopard. -Quote from Wikipedia.

November 2016 GOTM Winner: Mame Offender - 217,620 Tiger Heli Leaderboard POSITION USER NAME TOTAL SCORE 1 Mame Offender 217,610 2 ExedExes 152,010 3 patrickfx 138,120 4 Cynicaster 91,040 5 Luigimaker 56,180 6 GeorgeT 51,440 7 millerbrad 49,840 8 Floyd Turbo 49,640 9 hansolo77 47,550 10 rtkiii 44,010 Last Updated by hansolo77: 12-04-2019 RedDog - 36,680 Please use these settings when submitting a hi-score for Tiger Heli: ROMSet: TigerH Cabinet: Upright Flip Screen: Off Dipswitch Test: Off Player speed: Normal (Defaults to FAST) Lives: 3 Difficulty: Medium Bonus Life: 20000 80000 (Defaults to 50k 120k) Unknown: On [All] (Defaults to Off [All]) Special Rules: None The green coloured default values match the Twin Galaxies settings. The red coloured values need to be changed! # you can change your Mame dip switch settings by following this guide: # you can make a printscreen of your hi-score screen by following this guide: # general rules for submitting you hi-score:

Good game this month guys! Thanks for making it exciting. And you got it Patrick... Next time, Next Month! As long as there is interest, we'll keep adding more games on a monthly competition. But just because this game's month to shine is over, doesn't mean you still can't try and beat Cynicaster at his game! I actually look forward to seeing somebody beat the GOTM score, so keep those scores coming in. And thanks RTKIII for suggesting this great and popular game! Here's the official announcement! October 2016 GOTM Winner: @Cynicaster - 78,470 (link) Thanks again guys, stay tuned for November's Game! Updated OP, DB, RSS

Yeah I saw that while searching too.. Not exactly ideal, but that would make for a pretty game console should somebody decide to want to build their own without a pre-existing case. Day 9 Update Absolutely nothing to report today. Well, I take that back. I stayed up really late last night copying more ROMs over, then went to bed while the built in scraper grabbed all the metadata (box art and descriptions) for the systems I currently have installed. I will make a minor suggestion. The only reason I went with the 1tb hard drive was because my current GameEx drive is 1tb, and has roughly 100mb remaining. In reality, the RetroPie system doesn't utilize so much of the extra stuff GameEx has the ability to offer. RetroPie only does Box Art, where as GameEx does that, and carts, and titles, and snaps, and manuals, and EmuMovies. The high quality video snaps I have takes up a lot of space. It looks great on the PC, but RetroPie isn't there (yet). There's actually a thread that is picking up momentum where a guy is working on a theme that uses an arcade cabinet with changing marquee's per game, and a video snap for each game. This is a MAME centered theme right now, and it's just in the baby steps. But the way things are going, it looks like a lot of people are (rightfully) interested. So it'll be nice to see an official update get pushed out that includes full support. But until that happens, you're probably safe with a MUCH smaller drive. I don't have any CD-images on the drive yet (PSX, SegaCD), so right now I have 900mb still free, out of the 1000mb originally available, and that includes box arts. The Mausberry Circuit must be traveling by ground rather than air. The tracking updated today at around 7:30 this morning when it was in Pennsylvania. So it's 1 state over as of earlier today. USPS still shows an expected delivery of tomorrow, so that'll be something nice to come home to and play with. I'll include photos and stuff when I have the chance to mess around with it. Chances are though, I won't have time until Thursday, due to work and sleep. Also, if transportation is available, I'm going to make that final trek back to MicroCenter to return this working yet unusable USB Hub. Then it's on to Amazon to find a good alternative. Still looking for support from everybody if you care to help... Help me find the link with instructions on wiring up the NES reset button to the GPIO pins, and the script I need to run that returns to the game list (rather than RESET the Pi) Still looking for a good replacement Powered USB2.0 Hub (at least 4 ports on the front, and thin enough to fit in the cartridge slot) Would like somebody to do the work for me (since I'll be AT work lol) and find the Amazon links for the "C14"? plugs to add to the case for easy power hookups. (thanks drac!) Lastly.. I saw a cool YouTube video where somebody had replaced the LED with a color changing one. Sure, replacing it with BLUE is what a lot of people are doing, but having it color change would be awesome. Does such a thing require a special kind of circuit to control the timing/changing, or is it also just a simple 2-pin connection? I found some Tri-Color LEDs at MicroCenter, but they had 3 pins, so probably not what I need. This is just a cosmetic bonus, nothing at all immediate.

I didn't notice anybody had posted to this thread in a while, so I've gone ahead and added the previous requests as well. Should Defender be voted, we'll have to further discuss whatever limitations were mentioned previously. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Lol!! Believe it or not MO, you're last official submission was on November 1st, 2015.. just 1 day from a year ago! Awesome. Thanks for bringing this one back into the lime light! Updated OP, DB, RSS

Yes! Seems like this game pulled a lot of players from the cracks in the woodwork. I really appreciate it guys! I've seriously been contemplating ending the whole thing. I mean, what's the point of keeping it going if we only get 2 submissions a month? It's just a lot of effort coming up with games to play, and even having 30 voters with only 3 players makes it seem like it's just a waste of time. I only hope we have this much fun next month too! (got your score added too buddy!) I hear you loud and clear on that fatigue man. I can only go "mach 20" on my hand for like 2 rounds, then I have to give it a break! Ok, that sounded really dirty lol!! Unless there are any last minute entries, I'm calling the books closed on this with the new guy winning! I have to work tomorrow, but I'll be home by 7:00pm EST. I'll update the threads then. But remember, the cut off time is 12:00am Hawaii Time if you still want to get submissions in. That means you got like 9 more hours or so. Thanks again guys for keeping this thread active this month! Updated OP, DB, RSS

Judging from MO's reaction, that's an awesome score EE! I hope to get my own score posted on here soon for this. Looks like a fun game. Updated OP, DB, RSS

Had to rename the thread.... Pintendo sounds too much like a Pinball Machine made in the shape of a Nintendo. LOL NintendoPi sounds like all the rest of the Nintendo products... Nintendo Game Boy, Nintendo N64, Nintendo GameCube, Nintendo Wii, Nintendo Switch.. NintendoPi. Fits better.

I still think Natalie Portman and Ewan McGreggor did an excellent job with their roles. Hayden Christiansen was probably the worst casting decision EVER. That guy can't act. He ruined the best character there ever was. Casting is everything. I'll tell you what though.. if all you wanted was somebody to look like a child who wines and argues about not getting his way.. he did a pretty ok job of that. If you want to cringe for him, you got it. But feeling tied to his character and wanting to see what happens? Nope, I'd have been happier if he died in the podrace, and that Rodian buddy of his turned into Darth Vader. At least he was played by a real actor (Warwick Davis)!

DSL is sucksville anyway. If CentuaryLink DSL is charging about the same price and also have a fee hike on over usage, that's just insane. DSL is not going to get you anywhere near cable speeds. It would be just enough for you to read your email. Once you start Facebooking with Youtube videos, you'll know right away why DSL is going byebye. I'm actually surprised they still sell DSL service. I'd be even more surprised if they sell ISDN lines. I remember back in DIALUP days when our ISP was $50 for 56k, but the best you could get was 33.6 at 2am on a GOOD night. I don't even know if you can get dialup anymore, and if you do, I bet there's some jerk trying to sell it at the same price as high-speed.

I feel ya MO. I don't know why nobody played this one. I know times are tough and nobody has time to play. But somebody can squeeze a little time right? Maybe they just don't like this game. Maybe Michael Memories are still to raw? The games not going anywhere so it'll still be here after the month is over!

Yes it's a very close race.. 1 more day to go!

Thanks @Kustom Kid. That was my intention. I wanted to break it down, and show my process. That way if I decide to build another one for like my brother, I'll know what I did, and what works. Day 8 Update Woe is me. WOE IS ME!!! So I went back to the 'ol MicroCenter today to exchange my non-powered USB2.0 hub. I came back with a full on powered USB3.0 hub. Plugged it in, and wouldn't you believe it.. same damn issue. Keyboard and Xbox 360 dongle work fine in the Pi's USB slots, but don't get recognized in the HUB. This really aggravated me because this thing was 8x the cost! As a test, I went ahead and tried plugging it into my computer. It detected itself as a generic USB hub as it should. Then I connected the USB keyboard to it, and it detected just fine too and worked. Then I connected the Xbox dongle, and..yup worked fine too. So something is wrong on the Pi side. I tried everything, up to and including completely formatting the SD card and rebuilding a scratch version of the OS with manually updating drivers. Nothing helped. Then I got smart and used Google. There are so many Linux things I just don't know yet because I've not trained myself in the OS. But anyway, there is this command lsusb that gives you a listing of all the USB devices on the Pi. The hub is listed. That's a plus. But it doesn't show anything that's connected to it. I was, however, able to get the WD drive to run on it. So that got me to dig deeper. There is another command dmesg that basically gives you a log of the device's hardware operations. Linux detects all the attached hardware as it boots, every time. So this is a nice way to see where something goes wrong. I disconnected the hub and reconnected it, and it gives you better details as to what is happening. The problem isn't necessarily with the HUB. There is one major hardware issue I was unaware of. The "VIA" chipset is known to have difficulties working with the RPi's. I did not know this. This 2nd Hub I have, although not notated anywhere on the package, runs on the VIA chipset. So that fact alone means the probability of this hub working is about 50/50. Then the REAL cause of the problem was discovered. Apparently, the Pi is unable to detect and enumerate low-speed devices if they are connected to a high-speed hub. Seems like a silly restraint, as most devices you see say "Compatible with 1.1, 2.0 and (maybe) 3.0 Standards". PC's as far as I know, don't have this problem. Or if they do, they're probably fixed in drivers. With the Pi it's different. I dunno why, something to do with the architecture of how the whole system works. All I know is, a keyboard, mouse, joypad, etc, are all USB1.1 devices. They're low-speed, basic input type things. USB2.0 devices would be like my Hard Drive here, which works great through the hub. They're classified as full-speed. High-speed 3.0 devices are the latest/greatest thing and would be your TV-Tuners, Sound Cards, Data Transferring, and some Hard Drives. So these 2.0 and 3.0 devices work fine with the Pi and a Hub, but the 1.1 devices are just too slow. They work great plugged into the Pi directly though, so that's what was bothering me. The final "proof" as it were, was to add a line to the Pi's /boot/cmdline.txt file (think of it as the autoexec.bat file in old DOS days, or your system.ini file in Windows). By adding dwc_otg.speed=1, you're telling the Pi during bootup to run everything like it was made in the 90's. USB ports are all 1.1/low-speed. The SD card slot, LAN, and Wifi (pi3 models) are all 1.2mb speeds. This one change enabled the Keyboard to get instantly detected and enumerated on the Hub. However, the hard drive was no longer able to run, and the Xbox dongle only showed power, but communications were non-existent. So what did this teach me? Well, the Keyboard is low-speed 1.1. The Hard Drive and Xbox Dongle require at least full-speed 2.0. And the Hub is basically just a collection of charging ports unless I drop the speed to the point where it's unusable. So while the whole VIA chipset could have been an issue, and the non-powered USB2.0 hub I had previously bought wasn't able to supply enough power, my ultimate discovery was that I still have to work to do. I need to find a POWERED USB2.0 hub that will fit in the cartridge slot, and be compatible with the Pi. There are some examples that people have used, though this list is extremely out of date (they're using the original Pi as reference, not the super-powered Pi3). So I guess I need to shop around. For a somewhat un-helpful thread reference, here is the link to my request for help on the RetroPie forums. Nobody really helped me, and I discovered the problem on my own. But I still need help finding a replacement that works! I also picked up a nice little pig-tail 1ft HDMI extension cord. It has male on one end and female on the other. Plug the male into the Pi, and mount the female to the NES case. Then I have an outside-accessible HDMI port. I couldn't find anything as far as a good PC power plug like @Draco1962 found. I'm probably going to end up having to order that online. The best I could find a was a cable with the right reciprocal, but the other end was a simple female AC plug. So that's not going to help. It was $20 too, not worth it to just chop off the plug. The only other thing I bought was some 7-inch Female Jumpers. These are basically wires with the jumper plug already attached to the ends, so I can use them to attach wires to the GPIO on the Pi. My plan now is to wire up the RESET switch as a way to exit a game and return to the menu. This can be done easily enough with the right button combination on a gamepad, but if I'm going to use an Atari joystick, there's only 1 button. This will help with that, and make the RESET button usable. Trouble is, I can't remember the website that had the instructions on how to do it! If anybody can find it for me, let me know! The struggle carries on!

Make yourself a Raspberry Pi (love these things now!) and install Kodi on it. There are all kinds of FREE (though maybe not legal so be careful) addons for streaming TV and Movies. Or use a Roku device, and even install Kodi on your Xbox One. Kodi is the be-all end-all.

@Draco1962 - Thanks for that video, that's definitely a nice way to do it. If I didn't need 2 power inputs, I would certainly go that route. But since I'm going to have to have 2, I don't think that's very feasible. I don't really like the idea of cutting the power supply's apart and directly soldering them to the line-in AC from the wall. Plus, with 2 AC adapters, won't I run into some kind of interference? I guess I'll just have to wait and see what my options are. I'm going to the computer store tomorrow to buy a different HUB. @tthurman - I'm not sure that's what I need. Those look like pure USB chargers, with built in AC plugs. I can't connect my hub to that because I need something to get the data to the Pi. Day 7 Update... I checked on the tracking information for my Mausberry Power Circuit when I got home. It's coming from Boca Raton, Florida and is expected to be delivered on Tuesday. Can't wait! In other news, I played around a bit with my ROMs last night. I had to re-learn how to use ClrMAMEPro. I wanted to go through my romsets and remove all the crap I'll never play. I thought I remembered seeing something about a quick and easy way to remove things like Japanese and European ROMs when you already have a working USA version. So rather than have 3 or more copies of a game, you just have the 1, and the sorter would prioritize USA>Euro>Jap>etc. I just couldn't remember how I did it before. Then after doing a Google search (love that site!) I found where somebody had asked that same question and the solution was with CMP. Then I found on the GameEx forums where somebody was trying to do that too, and posted up a walkthrough of how he did it. It was a bit wrong towards the end, where he said simply scanning the ROMs will clear out the "crap", but I actually had to use the Rebuilder tool to get rid of them. Got that all cleared up though, and now I have a nice clean NES set. I'm going to try and migrate ROMs over one system at a time and test them before adding another one. Before, when I was learning the software, I had moved everything over at once. That caused a lot of issues with figuring out which ones worked, which ones didn't, etc. This way I can be sure the systems I have installed will be working.

This is old news. Comcast has always been data capping their service, or at least for as long as I can remember. Their high speed internet must be really super duper fast, guaranteed 100% uptime with nuclear bomb protection to have such a ridiculous offering. There have been so many hate threads on the internet posted by ex-users (or hopeful ex-users). When I heard our cable company was under threat to being bought by Comcast, I was fearful. Then they were bought by somebody else instead. Still, they increased cost and reduced speed, but maintained their advertised "No Data Cap". The least Comcast could do is what cell phone companies do, and just cut your speed down once you hit your cap. But honestly, 1tb is a lot. I'd look at your options. Maybe 1tb is enough. If you find you went over the first month, consider getting that unlimited plan. I hate to say it, but Comcast knows what they're doing. Companies are out to make money, even if it cuts their loyalties. If you have other companies available to you, I'd change. No sense getting worked up into it. Unfortunately for me (discussed before), I'm monopolized into only 1 cable company where I live due to the community's "no maintenance trucks" rule (that blocks installing the fiber cables for another company) and special dedicated to 1 company discount they got when they were first installed.

@Kustom Kid - I don't want a permanent solution like that though, I want to be able to remove it without sticky residues. @everybody else - I still use Photoshop. It's easily the most powerful. I can do everything on it. I've taught myself how to use it. The only reason I'd ever use Paint3D is if I had a real world need for it. This seems like a niche program, and MS could have probably made a buck off of it by selling it to people who need a 3D "paint" application. I think the last time I used Paint was when I was in grade school in the school library. I created graffiti with the airbrush tool and a pattern fill that looked like bricks. Just because I could.

I agree to a point. I was so super amped to see The Force Awakens. I got chills with their trailer. Then I stood in line waiting for the theater to be cleaned the 2nd day, for 45 minutes. Then I watched the movie. Saw a couple of nods to some previous movie events, then the whole "made for children" stuff started creeping in like the Rathars. Then the movie started going downhill. By the time I left the theater, I was pretty pissed it was just a reboot using pretty much the same story as the first one, just remixed. Rogue One, however, is a completely different beast. This will be a movie taking place prior to A New Hope, but after Revenge of the Sith. So the Empire is in full swing. The rebels are struggling. There is so much uncertainty happening in their universe. Now the story is fleshing out that there is a rebel whose father is majorly important to the creation of the Death Star, and they recruit her to go undercover to stop her father and find a way to destroy it. It doesn't look like a spy movie, but it definitely could have been written that way (James Bond in space (and yes, I know that was done - Moonraker)). Since none of the characters seen (so far) in the trailers (besides Mon Mothma and Darth Vader) exist in any part of the timeline after this movie, it allows the creators to drop made up characters in place, and kill them if need be for more impact. The only problem I see with this tactic though is character development. Is the movie going to be long enough and written well enough that you have a sense of care for them? Or are we just going to go in knowing everybody can die (think George R.R. Martin), and possibly see a droid be the hand off to get the plans to Princess Leia? The only thing we know for sure is that the Empire is building a Death Star, and somehow plans get "leaked" to the Rebellion. Only time will tell. I gotta ask though, when we add this move to our collections, where are you going to place it? I mean, does it belong in line with 1, 2, 3, R1, 4, 5, 6, 7 or should R1 and the next movies (Young Han Solo, etc) be split to a different shelf? I have my Clone Wars DVD's (Gennedy Tartakovsky's) and BluRay's (Dave Filoni's) separated even though they could easily go between 2 and 3, and the new Rebels show could go between 3 and 4 with R1 after that.

Day 6 Nothing really new to report here, as I had to work. I'm still waiting to hear back from the forum posts I made at RetroPie. I did however find their IRC chat room and joined up to ask there. Apparently they don't really like to talk support there, and really only use IRC for gossiping. Makes me wonder why WE don't have an IRC chat room. We just have a "chat room" running on the website. Anyway, one of the @mods there said it's probably a better idea to post new topics, rather than keep replying to same one with new questions. So I'm going to do that later tonight. There is one good thing. I got an email, while I was reading my email, that said my Mausberry power circuit had shipped and is on it's way here. Apparently it had just been picked up, so the tracking number doesn't work yet. I'll check where it's at tomorrow and report back as to it's expected delivery. One other thing. I'm definitely going to have to buy a different USB hub. I tried disconnecting everything from this one, and just plugged the USB Keyboard into it, and it still didn't "power on" the keyboard. The keyboard doesn't power on, but apparently it draws enough amps that the USB is unable to provide it's requirements after splitting it's available power 4 ways. So I'm probably going to need to get something Powered. This brings me to another issue... Should I get one that runs on the same power requirements of the Pi, and just splice off the power coming to the PI and then run the plug to the HUB, or would I be better off getting something different? One thing I was thinking was "do they make USB hubs that can draw power from the USB (like mine does) but have it actually connect to 2 ports and get double the power?" Chances are they probably don't. If they did, I'd look for something like a 7-port hub, to replace the ports I'd lose to the 2nd plug. But I doubt they make such a thing. The other thing I'm thinking of is maybe just getting a standard polarized extension cord (nothing crazy like industrial (orange) but something black if I can find it), chop off the 3-way out plug, and connect the PI and HUB to inside the NES case, then get myself some kind of plug that I can mount to the case, run the wires internally to the plug, and make the male (or female) plug for the other chopped of end of the extension cord, then connect that to the case and the wall. It'll give me just the 1 cable, and provide the power I need. What do you guys think? I don't know much about electrical engineering, but it's my understanding that a typical wall outlet (in the USA at least) just provides 2 prongs (3 if you want ground). 2 wires should be easy enough to play solder with and some shrink tubing. Is there more to it than that? I mean, obviously I'm going to want to make sure the cables line up correctly and don't switch. But that sounds a lot lot nicer. The other issue with that is finding the room for it lol.