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[PINCAB] MrGrynch's Pincab Project


MrGrynch

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My first controls upgrade to my pincab!  I wanted a mechanically limited 4-way stick, but I didn't want to a) add a second stick or b) have to open the coin door to switch the restrictor.  So, I found this stick from Ultimarc in London.  It uses magnets to center the stick and has a unique feature that lets you switch between 4-way and 8-way operation without a lever on the control panel (see magstik_plus.jpeg).

I removed my original stick, making note of the wire positions.  The original stick was mounted under the panel so there were no visible screws, etc up top, BUT... they used metal inserts to accept the machine screws AND... they didn't use the standard mounting holes, even though they were on the mount itself (see old_non_standard.jpeg).  As luck (bad) would have it, the non-standard holes are JUST close enough to the standard holes to prevent me from drilling new ones.  I also didn't have any of those inserts, so I decided not to undermount the new stick.

I created a template of the new stick and used a flashlight under the panel to help me align/center the template for drilling my mounting holes (see template_guide.jpeg).

After drilling the holes, I mounted the new stick (see installed.jpeg).  I wasn't thrilled with the stainless screw heads, so I spray painted them black.  It's not ideal but I will eventually build a new panel anyway, so I can live with it for now.

The first video, operation_top.,p4 shows the switching of 4/8-way from above the machine.  The second video, operation_inside.mp4 shows the switching of the restrictor plate.  To help me remember which direction to turn the plate, I added a guide to my game control images for MAME (see bagman.png).  Notice the half-arc at the top of the joystick image?  That blue bit shows me which position the restrictor plate needs to be.  I'm in the process for doing this for all of my MAME games.  These images are displayed on the DMD during gameplay

EDIT:  By the way, getting those connectors off the microswitches was a huge pain.  Any tips to make that easier?

magstik_plus.JPEG

old_non_standard.JPEG

template_guide.JPEG

installed.JPEG

bagman.png

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  • 1 month later...

@Draco1962 If you want to move my other post here, please do! (Ultimarc joystick upgrade)

So, I just pulled the trigger on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WJM9GP5?tag=rtings-uxe-dabde2-20&ie=UTF8&th=1

I found it new for a steal of a price.  Will be a great update to my cabinet.  I just hope I wont have trouble mounting it.  I'll chronicle the project here!

 

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46 minutes ago, MrGrynch said:

@Draco1962 If you want to move my other post here, please do! (Ultimarc joystick upgrade)

So, I just pulled the trigger on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08WJM9GP5?tag=rtings-uxe-dabde2-20&ie=UTF8&th=1

I found it new for a steal of a price.  Will be a great update to my cabinet.  I just hope I wont have trouble mounting it.  I'll chronicle the project here!

will 43" fit in your cab ? If so, lucky you ;)

Mounting not a real issue i guess.  Just some wooden slats , to keep the monitor/tv in place

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1 minute ago, Mike_da_Spike said:

will 43" fit in your cab ? If so, lucky you ;)

Mounting not a real issue i guess.  Just some wooden slats , to keep the monitor/tv in place

Hi Mike!

It's a 43" in there already and the dimension all seem to work out.  Harder part for me will be whether to try and decase the screen.  If I don't I will definitely need to modify the interior supports, which I kinda want to do anyway.  I want to be able to mess around with different insets depths and inclinations.

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Looking closer at the mounting of my existing playfield monitor, I doubt I will be able to reuse the existing materials.  Since this will likely not be the last time I have to replace the display, I'm going to future-proof it a bit.  I have an idea for a swivel mount that uses the VESA mounting screws.  This way I can lift the monitor to work on the interior or simply lift it out, if I need to replace it.  Since I am using the VESA mounts, I should be able to easily mount a new monitor in the future, without the risk of de-casing.

I'm also going to recess the monitor a bit into the cabinet.  In my opinion it makes the system seem less "video gamish" by adding some real depth.  Plus it opens up room if I want to add LED lighting in the future

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I pulled out the old display.  This crappy cabinet is made from dense particle board, not wood, so I have to be careful about how I add the new mounting parts.  I didn't know this until now, but the cabinet actually had a swivel in the monitor mount to lift the monitor up to work on the internals.

m7TgWjw.jpg

1LIb5Hk.jpg

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7 hours ago, Mike_da_Spike said:

Wow ! Your cabinet looks pretty 'clean' on the inside.
Did you build this cab from scratch ?
But very good job !
 

(did the GPU didn't fit, that the card is outside the case ?)

Hi Mike!

No, I didn't build it.  It came this way from China.  Some day, I'm going to get a real cab made... from WOOD!

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I ordered this VESA mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGD4TB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since my VESA orientation is 200 x 200, I can actually mount it vertically.  The mount can't also tilt up to 8 degree, so I can play with that a bit.  Next up is to build the frame that the mount will attach to.

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I need some help!  I am trying to figure out what kind of nut/bolt this is.  It has a smooth, shiny head with a long smooth shaft that's threaded at the end.  It's used for mounting things through a panel, so that it looks nice on the outside.  The screw goes on the underside of the panel.  For the life of me, I can't think of the name of that time of screw/nut.

The attached picture shows an example

 

67508841973__22E065A3-61A1-406B-A488-4EA88921B3FF.jpeg

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We used that style for some custom bound assemblies back when I was in the commercial printing business, but I have no idea where they sourced them.  I've also never seen one that was completely smooth on one side, not to suggest they don't make them like that.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/binder-post-barrel-nuts-chicago-screws

https://www.mcmaster.com/chicago-bolts/

https://www.fastenright.com/products/general-fixings/sex-bolts-barrel-nuts

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt

  • arch series screws
  • architectural sex bolts
  • barrel bolts
  • barrel nut
  • binding posts
  • Chicago screws
  • book screws
  • connector bolts
  • display fasteners
  • door closure bolts
  • furniture screws
  • grommet nuts
  • interscrews
  • panel fasteners
  • partition screws
  • post and screw sets
  • screw nuts
  • sex bolt
  • sleeve nuts
  • stationary screws.
  • threaded rivets
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9 hours ago, tthurman said:

We used that style for some custom bound assemblies back when I was in the commercial printing business, but I have no idea where they sourced them.  I've also never seen one that was completely smooth on one side, not to suggest they don't make them like that.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/binder-post-barrel-nuts-chicago-screws

https://www.mcmaster.com/chicago-bolts/

https://www.fastenright.com/products/general-fixings/sex-bolts-barrel-nuts

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt

  • arch series screws
  • architectural sex bolts
  • barrel bolts
  • barrel nut
  • binding posts
  • Chicago screws
  • book screws
  • connector bolts
  • display fasteners
  • door closure bolts
  • furniture screws
  • grommet nuts
  • interscrews
  • panel fasteners
  • partition screws
  • post and screw sets
  • screw nuts
  • sex bolt
  • sleeve nuts
  • stationary screws.
  • threaded rivets

Thank you so much!  I've literally spent hours lookin on Amazon and other place, but if you don't know what something is called, it can be hard to find.  Sex bolt appears to be exactly what I am looking for!

 

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I'm still waiting for my new display.  It should be here today or tomorrow.  In the meantime, I've been building a new platform to mount the TV on, so that it tilts and can be removed easily.  I also decided to inset the display.  The original mount only accommodated a de-cased display, and had the screen flush with the playfield glass.  I think that makes it look too "video gamey", so now it will be inset.  This creates other small issues I'll deal with in due time.

Anyway, here is what I've got.  It took a TON of measuring and "MacGuyver'ing" things, but it works!  I still have to mount the VESA wall mount plate, which will give me up/down adjustability.  The steel rods let me adjust left/right, and I've got locking collars to hold it in place once I have it in the right spot

 

 

IMG_1199.jpeg

IMG_1200.jpeg

IMG_1201.jpeg

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1 hour ago, tthurman said:

Nice, I think you'll like the "depth" of the new playfield.  

That's something I'm still struggling with on my crazy design.

I'm still struggling with the VESA mount.  I got a wall-mount but because the table needs to tilt up for maintenance, etc, I fear it could slide off the mount when upright, and I can't come up with a decent solution...yet.  Ultimately, I may go with a VESA plate mounted on a board with vertical and horiz slots for adjustment, and thumbscrews/wingnuts to secure it

As for the depth, I agree.  I did screw up the measurements and the depth is off by half an inch from my target, but that should be ok.  Then I need to see what kind of gaps I have and deal with it.  Maybe put a LED or Flasher panel in back

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