RIP-Felix

We never had the doh for Coleco. My dad bought the Atari 2600 and that's what we had until the SEGA Genesis. I remember going to the goodwill (for clothes) and I would con my mom into getting a couple Atari 2600 games they had in bins, that's how we were able to afford them...lol. Man we were poor. I begged my mom for $20 so I could buy a friends GameBoy he was selling. Original version, with the clear case, and about 10 games. I still have it in perfect working condition. When you grow up not being able to afford much, you learn to take care of what you have. The NES was also goodwill find. It wasn't until the N64/PS1 that I was able to get newer systems and more than one or two new games for it. So, while I have fond memories of cherishing a handful of A2600, NES, GameBoy and Genesis games, my real dive into gaming started with the N64 and PS1. I only started playing SNES games as an adult, well after playing the N64 port. I'm starting to get a real taste for that generation (16-bit) of gaming, even though it mostly passed me by. Honestly, I have such a backlog of great games I've never played that I barely play my PS4 - the occasional Skyrim binge is about it. "I don't always play games, but when I do, I play retro."

I'm sure UPS appreciates the Dick Joke Journalism. My dad worked at UPS for awhile and I can attest to the fact that sorters have ZERO time to treat any package that crosses their path any different than the last. Not to mention the fact that a different muscle is sore every day, the fact that they are not allowed to work more than a 4-hour shift should tell you everything you need to know. The strenuous nature of the job precludes any feelings of goodwill towards the source of their daily pain - the endless onslaught of packages. And if you can't keep up, they send you to smalls - which is the same as having your dick cut off. It should be no suprise then that workers see packages as the enemy. They are just cashing paychecks or counting the days until they can drive a truck. Sorting is hell... But it is a great workout. And if you make a game out of it, It can be fun. Or so my dad told me. He said He should have stuck it out for awhile longer so He could drive a truck, which is actually a good job.

And now for a short Anecdote: I had a bit of a start when I was scoping the SRAM next to to the 1-chip CPU and getting some high frequency patterns. I had my CRT on and set to channel 3, because I was checking to see if the RF output was getting picture. Anyway, when I poked a line there was a sizzling sound that sounded like I was frying the board! It took me a moment to realize the sound was coming from the CRTs speakers. I had to remove the RF shielding over the chipset to access them. Also, I used alligator clips to ground my probe. I realize now, that acts like an antenna. I was broadcasting static! What I was hearing was that being picked up by the CRT. Gets the blood pumping!

Part 5: IT'S ALIVE! I was watching some an old YouTube live stream with Bob from RetroRGB and Lord Voultar. They were comparing 1-chip consoles with and without the bypass board. It's a 3 hour stream, so I had it on in the background while I was poking around the board's vias with my oscilloscope (It's an I-pod nano that has been converted into a cheap 20MHz scope). Anyway, I was poking around the CPU and noticed that sometimes there was some kind of activity and other times none. I tried power on/off and hitting the reset button and noticed that a waveform would periodically come on screen. I noticed that it happened only when I hit the reset button a few seconds after turning the power switch on. The Wave form looked like a game was running, repeating non linear pulses. So I plugged into the TV, flipped on the power and... Nothing...just like before. But unlike before I waited a few seconds and hit the reset button...after a few attempts the familiar intro to super mario world came on. So it's working. I just need to figure out whats wrong with the initial power cycle. I wonder why it needs to wait then reset. ***EDIT*** It's like it needs time to "pre-charge" or "warm up" before the reset trick will work. It takes about ten seconds after PWR ON before the reset button will begin working. On my OSSC LCD screen I notice that after a few initial resets it will show the 15KHz sync then fail and say no sync, after that it only takes one or two more attempts to sync and be stable. Once it has been on and running for a while, if I turn it off then back on withing 4 seconds, it will fire up no problem, but not after 5 or more seconds. After that I have to hit the reset button a couple of times to get it back. ***EDIT*** It's an odd one, but I do now have a working, if finicky, 1-chip SNES. I plugged it into the OSSC via RGB scart and it looks much better than my SNS-CPU-RGB-02. That one had a sort of diagonal checker board pattern of jail-bars, Looked like strands of rope or yarn in large patches of solid color (see below). The 1-chip clears that up and looks sharp: Wow, no wonder they are so sought after. Almost emulator quality picture. The pictures were taken with my phone, since I don't have a capture card. Consequently,the quality looks bad zoomed in like this. but that's the best I can do atm. It's much better in person. Both are through RGBs SCART to my VIZIO P55-F1 HDMI5 via the OSSC in Line triple mode (720p). That is the highest line multiple the TV will accept. Now I just need to figure out that power on issue. Why does it fail to start immediately? Why do I have to hit reset a few times to get it to work? That's that last hurtle. ***EDIT*** I replaced the 7805 voltage regulator with a 78S05 and placed a 470uF cap across the output/ground, to prevent the vertical bar in the center of the screen sometimes seen. I also went ahead and recapped with the Console5 SMD kit, being sure to get everything placed right and checking the capacitor health. Everything checked out, including the previous caps from the last recap. That did not resolve the issue, and the system exhibits the same behavior. I think that definitively rules out the main power circuit. I read that 9v is sufficient to work with the 7805, but not quite high enough to prevent a rolling bar of static fuzz that crawls down the screen every 10 seconds. I was using a cheap 9v aftermarket adapter purported to work with both nes & snes. I used my CRT before getting the OSSC, which is why I didn't notice it before. Now that I have it hooked up to the OSSC on my big screen, it's there just like they said. So I hacked up a 12v 2A AC/DC adapter I had laying around. I reversed the polarity so that the center pin is negative, to match the SNES requirement (this is opposite to most adapters). After checking it with the multimeter and feeling for any heat in the wire, which would indicate a short, I tried it out. Works fine to remove the static bar. No change to the reset/sync issue. I was hoping it might fix my power/reset issue, which I'm starting to think is a problem with SYNC. I could bypass the RGB sync altogether with Voultar's 1CHIP/Mini THS7374 RGB Bypass Kit. It produces a clean, properly attenuated sync. If that's the problem, this might fix it. However, I'd like to find some diagnostic procedure to confirm before buying his kit. To be concluded...

Part 4: Second SNES Arrived Today! Well the second SNES arrived today. This one was a much older unit and in serious need of Retrobrite. Good thing I'm only interested in what's inside. It's a complete unit, everything that was missing from the 1-chip that I needed was inside. Even the 2 piece 62-pin cartridge connector! It looks to be in good shape even, which was lucky. So I went ahead and Frankenstein'ed the hell out of it and placed my monster on my reanimation table (test bench). After some thunder and lightning I threw the switch and.... Nothing... Well, crap. I double checked that everything was hooked up right and even hooked up my working SNES to confirm. The LED is on and it should be displaying and sending audio out, but I get neither. I hoped it could be that simple, but had a feeling it wouldn't be. It's no shocker, given the desirability of these 1-chip consoles. I'm not the first to try and revive this monster. The next thing to try is reflowing all the solder pads on the chips just to make sure they have a good connection. I'll check continuity of the 62-pin connector and the solder point on the board, to be sure there are no loose connections. That can cause this blank screen. If that fails I'm going to have to get out the oscilloscope and tackle 4) Replace Defective Chips: I need to find a pin that shows ROM access if the game is running, but I can't see it. That way I can either confirm is the process is getting that far but the video signal isn't getting out, or that it isn't. The answer will narrow down the possibilities. I'll need to check the +5V VCC going to each chip, to make sure they are getting power, and grounds to be sure current can flow through the chips. I need to find a good way of checking each chip in the chain, some kind of diagnostic technique that will allow me to narrow the fault down to one chip. So now is the time to do homework, I need to learn how to do the above... To be continued...

Screw that. Lets bring chain mail back in style! I hear it's quite breezy on those warm summer days.

Part 3: 1-chip SNES Arrived Today! Well that was fast. I went ahead and performed my test procedure: 1) Disassemble, Clean, and Inspect: I had a look at Console5's cap kit documentation: A SNS-CPU-1CHIP-01 is not supposed to have a Capacitor 58 installed for north American board revisions. So the lack of it is a non issue. 2) Check the Power circuit: The 1.5A pico fuse has continuity, so it has not blown and is good to go. The real issue I can see off the bat are that most of the capacitors have been installed incorrect. It seems someone has previously tried a recap and didn't pay close enough attention to polarity. I went ahead and de-soldered them. After confirming they were good (out of circuit) and of the correct spec, I soldered them back in with the correct polarity. However, I did make a fairly big mistake: I lifted a solder pad off the board! After an oh $hizzzzz...moment, I realized it was the ground pad. So I just scoured the ground plane next to the pad a bit and soldered to that. I've checked with the multimeter that has continuity with the ground plane, so all is good. It was just a scary few minutes while I felt sorry for myself and came up with a plan. Another thing to point out is that the removable portion of the 62-pin connector is missing. I hoped I could just swap the one from my working snes to test, but it turns out that some of these are 2 parts and others are one piece soldered in place. My working snes is the latter, which is harder to clean when the time comes. So when the other broken SNES arrives I'll check to see which kind it has. Hopefully the former. If not I'll need to buy one somewhere. I decided to end testing there for now. I'd rather not plug it into power until the cart slot arrives. This way I can see the effects on the screen. Also, I kinda want to keep my Good snes intact. I'd rather build my Frankenstein monster from the other dead snes, once it arrives. ***EDIT*** I checked e-bay and the other snes wont arrive for at least 3 days. Well, I'm too impatient to wait that long with my curiosity. So I removed the power switch and controller panel from my working SNES to test the 1-chip. I can't load a cart without the pin connector, but the Power LED did come on and the 7805 voltage regulator checked out. So that completes Step 2, which is good news. I already completed most of step 3 (Reflow Solder Joints and replace blown caps) during step 2. So that only leaves the 62-pin connector. If the replacement SNES doesn't have a detachable 62-pin connector I'll have to desolder it and replace with a one piece, which can be had new for cheap. If after that I get graphical garbage, I know it's due to the chipset (CPU, PPU or SRAM). That would be the hardest thing to fix, because I'd need narrow it down to the chip, find a working replacement, and rework fine pitch SMD components with a hot air station. That adds considerable difficulty to the repair. It is however, the next step in my education working with electronics. I haven't done it before and need the practice. I'd probably practice on some an old scrap motherboard first, but I'm hoping it won't come to that. To be continued...

I got one of thoes yellow envelope letters in the mail that uses a font looking like hand writing. They even used a real stamp to sell the look. I've seen these before. What was new this time was this little Plastic thing glued to the letter inside. It made the envelope bulge as if there was something more inside. Well this was your run of the mill scratch it to see if you've WON A NEW CAR!! The plastic thing had a pull tab with a serial number that lights up with a red LED. So the idea is, if the serial number matched the scratch off, you win a new car. Well I scratched, and pulled, and...Oh hey guys, guess what? I WON A LEXUS!!! Oh wait...I won an invitation to attend a lexus dealership, for a chance to win a lexus at an ambushing event (err, I mean spring clearance event). OH BOY!!!! I pocketed the batteries and LED, then recycled the tree carcass. How did they get my address I ask you? I'm sure it wouldn't have anything to do with the new car I bought last year. My dealership would never sell my personal information like that! No I'm sure everyone in a 100 mile radius of the dealership received one of these letters. No, the dealership or the marketing firm they didn't hire made no effort to target their audience...Man it's exhausting trying to defend obviously shady tactics. Marketing must ruin a person emotionally, if they were't sociopaths to begin with. This is just one of the many good reasons to have more privacy and an example of what the lack of privacy leads to.

Part 2: Developing a Strategy for Repair So before I even recieve the broken SNES's, there is the work to be done. First I need to do my research. Below are some service videos I was able to dredge up from 1993. This kind of thing was very helpful when I was troubleshooting my Atari 2600. So I thought this would be a good place to start again. My preferred idea was to find a service manual, like I was able to find for the A2600. However, I've not found one yet. If anyone comes across one, drop a link. Videos can lead you astray, technical manuals are much preferred if they exist. Super Nintendo Repair Videos: So from reading and watching videos, I've started to come up with an approach. Please note this is not a guide, it's just me documenting my progress for the purpose of my own repair. It is not intended to be a comprehensive troubleshooting flowchart and I'm sure there are errors. If you follow my steps and brick your system, then that's on you. 4 Step Troubleshooting Procedure: 1) Disassemble, Clean, and Inspect: 2) Check the Power circuit: 3) Reflow Solder Joints and replace blown caps: 4) Replace Defective Chips: EDIT: Ever wonder why Nintendo used a propriatary power plug for the SNES? Here's an interesting anecdote I discovered while researching electronics for this project. I noticed that the 7805 Voltage regulator used in the power circuit of the SNES is the same as the A2600 repair I did awhile back. Apparently its also compatible with Atari 400/800, Atari 2600, Atari 5200, Atari 7800, Commodore 64, Emerson Arcadia, Fairchild Channel F System II, Intellivision INTV System III, Magnavox Odyssey2, Mattel Intellivision, Mattel Intellivision II, Mattel Intellivision v1, NEC Turbo Duo, NEC TurboGrafx CD Dock, NEC TurboGrafx-16, Nintendo NES, Nintendo NES Front Loader, Nintendo NES Top Loader, Nintendo SNES, Nintendo SNES SNS-CPU-GPM, Nintendo SNES SNS-CPU-RGB, Nintendo SNES SNS-CPU-1CHIP, Nintendo SNES SNN-CPU, RCA Studio II, Sega Genesis, Sega Genesis v1, Sega Genesis v2, Sega Master System, Sega Master System v1, Sega Master System v2, Tandyvision, and Vectrex. Wow, that little thing powers alot of retro consoles! Well, the Genesis power adapter is 10V 850mA and would be a one to one replacement for the SNES adapter if it were not for Nintendo's decision to us a proprietary plug. I guess that kept customers coming back to them for replacements and reduced their returns form people using the wrong adapter. I get it, it just seems type-a controlling. Sega went with a standard plug, and they did just fine with the Genesis. EDIT: If I look closely at one of the pictures in the e-bay listing, there is a something a bit shady. ***Edit of this Edit: It's not supposedt to be populated on NTSC boards, so this is fine. I didn't know that yet, but figured it out later.*** It's obvious to me that I will need a recap kit. So I just got a full SMD cap kit from Console5.com. I also picked up a DC barrel jack adapter for the snes, that will allow me to use my Sega Genesis wall wort to avoid e-bay scalpers charging $16-25 for an OEM Nintendo adapter. I picked up two extra 7805 voltage regulators (handy to have) and a 1.5A pico fuse while I was there. That should cover the electronics that I may need. The total was $15.52, so now I'm in $75 for this project thus far. To be continued...

HD Retrovision PS2/3 Component Cables and RetroTink2x is the combo I'd recommend. I bought an OSSC to solve the problem you are describing, but the RetroTink is more affordable and has composite inputs, which the OSSC doesn't (although it still looks bad). Of course the best possible video output is the completely lossless RGB. You can buy cables, but need a device to accept SCART (a european video standard that never made it to the US). That is what the OSSC is good for! Watch this, it will explain in more detail:

Yep, I've helped out a few people ignorant of basic computer privacy and security. I mean basic, like installing an antivirus program and running it periodically. It's absolutely blood curdling to see a sweet old lady just trying to keep in touch with her son living across the country get taken advantage of. My advice shouldn't have to be, 'disconnect from the internet'. Especially since now it's practically impossible to. Their considerable education and experience sadly couldn't prepare them for a world this messed up. They need people to help them learn, or a society that keeps enough analog methods around to allow them to function offline. Oh here's an example I see all the time. I have the weather channel app installed on my phone. Well they have an ad right in the middle of the current day forecast and the seven day. It always has some incredible click-bait picture/caption. Things like, "Clint Eastwood facing 25 to life" with a picture of him looking sullen. Things like that make you think "what happened"?. And lookout if you click on the ad to find out! That's on a reputable app like the weather channel. Do they not have standards? Or are they just so greedy they don't care how many people get duped, as long as they get paid the most? Maybe they justify the decision by shifting the blame to us. "Well they don't want to pay for the app, so we have to make money some way".

Part 1: Not leaving well enough alone. Okay, after the success of my thread on fixing an Atari 2600, I've decided to try my luck at the Super Nintendo. Recently I became the proud owner of my very first SNES!!! This is such a great console. I wish I could have owned one as a kid. Instead we got a Genesis, which I still think was probably the better choice. Many of the same games released on both systems and the Genesis versions were often the definitive version...well...at least that's what I tell myself. I digress... Well the SNES I bought was guaranteed to work or my money back...and it indeed does work just fine. "But wait, I thought this thread is about fixing a broken SNES"? Yes, yes, don't get your cords in a bunch. I'm getting to that. While yes, the SNES I bought works fine and I have been having a bunch of fun playing my small collection of real carts, what I didn't know when I bought it was not all Super Nintendo's are alike. And there's one important difference in particular that I'm referring to - Video Quality. I also recently bought an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC). However, there's something amiss when I hook my SNES up the the OSSC via RGB SCART. It's underwhelming, a bit softer than I was hoping. Much more so than my Genesis via RGB. So I went on a search to find out why. The guys over at My Life in Gaming did a very nice video which explains the issue: With a nagging sense of buyers remorse I opened my SNES and removed the RF shielding covering the CPU chip-sets: Okay, that's not a big deal. I can just buy an RGB or ultraHDMI like mod for it, right? Sadly, no! There is no mod currently available for my console. I resigned myself to the fact I would just have to be okay with a softer image. But, you know me. I couldn't leave it alone. I became obsessed. I...may have...gone a little overboard...again...and bought another SNES. Well, actually, it was two. The first is a 1-chip missing parts, sold as is and not working. It looks to have been worked on previously, Given the desirability of 1-chip consoles, I'm probably taking a bit of a gamble here. But that's the point of this thread - to challenge myself to fix a broken SNES. The second SNES I bought is just for parts, so I can piece together any missing from the 1-chip and not have to pilfer any from my current working console. The biggest issue it looks to have right off the bat is some ugly rework of the cart slot. I'm really hoping the contact pads weren't worn away by someone who doens't know how to use a braided solder wick properly. It looks bad in the photo, but Until I get it in hand, I can't know for sure. My hope is that nothing is fried or corrupted, and I can just rework the solder joints. So that's where I'm at with this project thus far. My goals for this project are: Learn about the SNES and have fun diagnosing and solving problems. Refine my technique using an oscilloscope, multimeter, soldering iron, and reflow station. Learn more about electronics and schematics. Compare board revisions, discover interesting anecdotes and asides in the SNES relm. Eventually have a working 1-chip SNES main board I can drop into my current SNES. Then compare the picture quality. So far I only stand to loose $60. But it's a descent price to pay for the fun I'll have trying to fix the hardware, and I may just end up with 3 working SNES consoles. That would be GREAT! To be continued...

There's a been a war raging between advertisers and consumers since forever. Services that protect privacy cater to consumers, which makes them safer and provides a place of refuge. Advertisers and those they support see this as an assault on their livelihood, and work feverishly to prevent you from having anywhere to hide. They discredit, demonize, and ban privacy on false idealism, like the old adage, "if you have nothing to hide, you have nothing to loose". Ad-men, pocket politicians, radical nationalists, and many others convince themselves that Less privacy means more safety. Well that's a dangerous notion and clearly wrong. Nothing is more effective at preventing an attack as keeping secrets. Privacy is the primary deterrent, security only applies if the enemy knows how to look for what, as well as when and where to look for it. That knowledge should have been kept secret in the first place. The most effective security system, strongest door, castle, fortress, or military detachment can't beat lack of knowledge. If no one knows who, what, when, where, and why, then there will be no enemy to attack you in the first place. Ask the defense department if we'd be safer without a private place to store state secrets, online retailers if they or their customers would be safer without a private place to store sensitive information. Public nudity is illegal. That's something to hide, and I will loose my freedom and reputation if I don't. Here's a fact. I have to undress at some point (to bathe, change my cloths, play risque twister, or whatever), so I need a private place to do that. Glass houses, doors and ceilings prevent no one from seeing what they'd rather not or shouldn't - they just keep people out. Privacy doesn't just protect secrets you want exposed, like corporate or political corruption, but those you don't, like personally identifiable information. Most secrets are good, not bad! My credit card and social security number are secrets. No one would say that I'm a terrorist and try to have me incarcerated for not letting a thief steal my identity or money, but that's what this dangerous rhetoric implies - that there's no legitimate use for secrets and if you have anything to hide you must be a criminal. Good people absolutely have more to hide and loose than they ever did before. The internet has changed the way secret information is stored and shared. We need more privacy, because we have much to hide and a lot to loose.

Okay, so from what I gather It boils down like this: I gather a good paid VPN offers the ultimate in anonymity and privacy, whereas Proxy servers and Smart DNS only offer sudo anonymity - snoops can still intercept your unencrypted web traffic and see what you see, unless the DNS server offers DNScrypt. And if it does, haw is that different from a VPN?

I play it a bit dangerous I guess. HTTPS everywhere, Ghostery, Norton Security Suite, and DuckDuckGo square my security. I have been rocking a modified "Hosts" file forever, which I'm not sure even works the same as it used to. It was kinda like pi-hole, except ad servers are listed in the hosts file. When a webpage requests an element from an ad server listed in the Hosts file, a match is found. This tricks the website into thinking the file is local to my machine; but nothing really is. The ad never appears on the page, instead it's replaced with a "not found" image if anything appears at all. I've been considering NordVPN for an added level of anonymity. I'd prefer a free VPN if there were a good one (outside US, unlimited DL, & fast), but I've not looked that hard into it. What is this DNS voodoo you speak of?

Been using it exclusively for a few years now. I can't see any reason to use Google anymore.

I was considering a RetroTink until I decide to just go all out and get an OSSC. However, I'd recommend the retrotink over the above option as it's designed with no compromises in terms of Lag or aspect ratio. It does cost a bit more, but if you don't care about RGB then it's probably the best bang for your buck (Supports component, composite, and s-video).

How would you feel if you give your kid $10 for the arcade and instead of playing Galaga, Centipede, Bobble Bobble, Crusin USA, Hydro Thunder, Area 51, or freaking Donkey Kong, he tells you he spent it on the Cyclone and redeemed the tickets for a sticky wall creeper that will stain your walls, get ground into the carpet, and could have been bought from a vending bubble for 25 cents? Would you tell him, "you learned a good life lesson, didn't you. I hope you had fun"? I'm an adult and can make an informed decision to waste my money on a machine I know is unfair (Gamble). Kids spend money on them in hopes of redeeming prizes, unknowingly gambling. It's illegal to sell one thing and deliver another. It's called "bait and switch". That's what redemption scams do (and games at the fair too for that matter). They trick you into thinking the game is fair, but instead cheat you. Worse, they cheat real arcade machine operators who would otherwise see more profits. Game designers suffer too. Worst, they expose kids to the thrill of winning at someone else's expense & the shame of loosing more than they get in return. It's like casinos are marketing to minors in arcades. What bothers me is that it exploits ignorance, especially the most vulnerable demographic - Kids. I'd prefer to live in a world where no one ever tried to corrupt human decency by exploiting naivety. It's wrong to take advantage of innocence in this way...it's criminal. They beg their parents for money and are faced with the option to choose a ticket redemption machine or a true arcade game. They can buy candy from the candy store or the creepy man parked in the car outside it. Redemption scam machines are parasites in the arcade. A redemption game of skill is one thing. You have a fair chance to win and they can be quite fun (the bowling ball jump into a target, that ball drop game, and many others). I have no problem with games of skill and winning prizes if you get good at it. A device designed to circumvent a players skill and cause them to lose more often than not is categorically different. That's gambling and should be illegal for minors. I have a problem with games that make you think you could do better if you got better, only to find out it's not you...it's rigged...and it (the operator) stole your money. That's not fun. THAT PISSES ME OFF!

The claw machines let the operator set claw strength on grip, lift and travel. Claw strength increases once the minimum amount of money is met, to allow a prize to be won, then resets back to scam mode afterwards. It's criminal IMO.

I hate redemption machines. They encourage gambling instead of rewarding skill and undermine gameplay. It should be about the game, not the tickets.

Unfortunately, no . I think it has to be in X-input or switch mode to work, and Pi's / classics don't seem to like that mode. It surely is possible, but I'm not aware of anyone who has devoted the time to code a driver specifically for it. I'm not sure about DS4 controllers, I imagine there is a larger cohort of users that would like to get vibration working for it.

I got one on launch, for $99 (ouch). Honestly, I haven't had much time to hack it. I tried a few USB sticks I have lying around, but they are hit or miss. I'm waiting for the USB OTG version which should be soon. I did update the firmware on my 8Bitdo USB adapter so that it will work on the PS classic. So now I can use my SN30Pro or a PS4 controller on it! BleemSync is sweet and the PSC has more horsepower under the hood than a Pi or NES/SNES classic. So I'm happy with the purchase, not for what Sony gave us, but the potential unleashed by enthusiasts.

That's actually pretty legit. I've thought about doing that with an OGXB. Set that bad boy up with GameEX, steam, retroarch, and keep a wireless mouse and keyboard handy. I likes it.

I like the idea of "GAMEFLIX", if you will, It just can't compete with retroarch IMO. It is good to see that Nintendo is starting to realize the value retro games still have, instead of neglecting them. It would be nice to see a more robust library of games from across many systems. Not having to navigate the virus laden basements of the internet for roms is the biggest appeal. BUT! Does nintendo have run-ahead latency reduction like retroarch does? Nope. I don't think I'll be replacing RA anytime soon.

And we're heading down that same path. Scary!