[GAMING PC] [RETIRED] Draco1962's F-4E Phantom II "Spook" Tribute Retro Gaming PC Build

[Draco1962]

While going through some PC parts accumulated over the last few years, I decided to build another PC. As my dad worked on the F-4E Phantom II fighter bombers for much of his USAF career (and my favorite of the era), I decided to adorn the side panel with The Spook Sticker Decal Vinyl F-4 F4 Phantom Ghost as a tribute to both. 

F-4E Phantom II "Spook" Tribute Retro Gaming PC Build Specs:

OS -  Windows 11 Pro
CPU - Ivy Bridge Intel® Core i7-3770 CPU @ 3.40GHz
Memory - Memoz 32GB DDR3 Desktop RAM 4X 8GB 1600MHz PC3L 12800U DIMM

GPU - GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Gaming OC 8G
Motherboard - Asus P8Z77-V LK
Storage -

• Primary (OS): Silicone Power SP 1TB SSD
• Second (Apps, FE): Silicone Power SP 2 TB SSD
• Third (Steam, GoG stores): Silicon Power SP 2TB SSD
• Fourth (Media, ROMS, Backups, Etc.): WD BLACK 4TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Gaming Hard Drive - WDBSLA0040HNC-NRWM

PSU - Be Quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850W Gold Certified

Case - be quiet! Pure Base 501 Airflow Black ATX Case

Cooling - PURE ROCK PRO 3 Black - BK042

Addons:

• PURE WINGS 3 140mm PWM HS fan - The PC case comes with 2 140mm fans pre-installed - one in front and one in back. I decided it might be best with the addition of the 3060 Ti to boost the intake a little more with a second intake fan at the front.
• NOYITO Motherboard Extension Cable Set 22AWG Silver Plated Cable Gold-Plated Plug Power SW Power LED HDD LED Reset SW Four Kinds Extension for PC DIY (0.3 Meters, Black) - The case uses the now-found-everywhere Intel front panel block for power & reset switches, power & HDD LEDs, I had to purchase a motherboard extension cable set to connect the block to the front panel jumpers on the motherboard.
• USB 2.0 to USB 3.2 Gen 1 Header Adapter, Mainboard 9 Pin Male to USB 3.1 Type-E (A-Key) Female Converter for Extending USB C Ports on Front Panel of PC - As the case provides for USB C, I purchased the USB header adapter to allow for USB C front panel functionality in addition to the 2 USB 3.1 ports.
• ASUS PCE-AX1800 PCIe WiFi Adapter - WiFi 6, Bluetooth 5.2 - The motherboard has no WiFi or Bluetooth integrated.

This will likely be my last Windows-only build.

[ClassicGMR]

A 3rd Gen i7, DDR3 and ... a 3060 ti? Interesting combo.  I Like the use of random parts though! I've done this a few times and netted some decent builds. Most customers don't want the old parts I replace so they do tend to accumulate.

 

Your pics didn't load right. I'd love to see it. EDIT: Weird but they loaded. Looks nice! Always liked Be Quiet! stuff.

[Draco1962]

The CPU will definitely be the bottleneck with this combo, but it works.

The 800w PSU came from my "Marvin" gaming rig upgrade. 

Overall, the build is an effort to put my philosophy of repair & reuse in action. I estimate about $300 thrown at the project for the new case & fan, PCIE WiFi card, and 2 TB secondary drive. 

[Draco1962]

PS - While the RGB lighting adds a bit of eye candy, I like the monotone/monochrome builds better. I updated the first post with the pic of the finished rig. Also, I updated it to Windows 11. Still a few minor issues to try to iron out.

 

[Draco1962]

Minor issue with long boot time partially resolved. 

I modified the Windows power profile to enable Fast Startup on shut down in addition to enabling Fast Boot in the UEFI settings.

Both resulted in much faster return to Windows from a shutdown state, although I will have to perform regular Restart actions to refresh everything or if an error occurs.

 

[Draco1962]

On 9/10/2025 at 5:26 AM, ClassicGMR said:

A 3rd Gen i7, DDR3 and ... a 3060 ti? Interesting combo.  I Like the use of random parts though! I've done this a few times and netted some decent builds. Most customers don't want the old parts I replace so they do tend to accumulate.

Interesting results found here: Bottleneck Calculator Intel® Core i7-3770 CPU and RTX 3060 Ti

 

[Draco1962]

The bottleneck calculations lead me to this. So does this mean that some of the newer games are better at leveraging the newer GPUs to perform the needed calculations previously assigned to the CPU?

 

[Draco1962]

I haven't been satisfied with the idle temperatures of this build, as the CPU is using the stock Intel air cooler, which operates in the 50-60°C range. I decided to go for a little overkill and bought a PURE ROCK PRO 3 Black - BK042. I will report back soon with pics and temps, but for now, it's time to disassemble the rig to install the cooler MB backplate, etc.

[ClassicGMR]

That cooler should definitely be overkill and the repaste should help as well depending on when you did it last. 

[Draco1962]

21 hours ago, ClassicGMR said:

That cooler should definitely be overkill and the repaste should help as well depending on when you did it last. 

I actually repasted with the Intel cooler when I put it into the case.

That said, I had hope to share some good news BUT I may have borked something during the swap because I am now getting a solid red DRAM light on the motherboard! Yay me!

While the RAM was not touched, I removed each stick, cleaned the contacts, blew out the channels.l, and tried 1 stick at a time, but no dice.

Replaced the CMOS battery as it was totally dead, but still no POST - just that damned red DRAM light!

The CPU, GPU, and chassis fans come on when turning the PC on, and cycle off and on when I press the Mem OK! button near the DRAM light.

Before getting deeper into the build, I confirmed that I had the latest BIOS revision 1402 installed.

So next thing is removing the new cooler and pulling the CPU to rule out any bent or broken pins. No visible issues with the motherboard, such as cracks or blown capacitors.

So more fun ahead and hoping that I don't have to replace the CPU and/or motherboard. 🤪

 

[Draco1962]

Well, no signs of bent or broken pins on the CPU socket or burnt/deballed areas on the chip. Will attempt a POST with the CPU reseated, GPU and RAM only. Wish me luck!

[Draco1962]

The issue persists. I cleared CMOS and tested each stick in each slot and blinking red DRAM light persists.

I then tried another set of known working RAM and same result. 

One last thing to do is test the PSU to ensure that no issues from that end. 

Any suggestions?

[Draco1962]

P.S. In order to see if there are any POST codes being generated but not audible due to no chassis speaker, I have puchased a 4-pin chassis speaker to plug into the Speaker header on the motherboard. 

[ClassicGMR]

Usually if you're getting a RAM light on the motherboard:

•  - verify the RAM is good if possible in another system
•  - verify the traces on the motherboard haven't been scratched while you were working on it
•  - the Intel CPU has had the RAM controller integrated since Gen1 and it may be bad if it was seated incorrectly or had the cooler put on too tight
•  - verify all the power connectors are in place and seated tightly. The 24 pin and the CPU connector especially.

 

Quote

P.S. In order to see if there are any POST codes being generated but not audible due to no chassis speaker, I have puchased a 4-pin chassis speaker to plug into the Speaker header on the motherboard. 

I got into the habit of always installing one in my builds. Such a cheap diagnostic tool that comes in handy more often than people think. Good call.  

[Draco1962]

16 minutes ago, ClassicGMR said:

Usually if you're getting a RAM light on the motherboard:

•  - verify the RAM is good if possible in another system
•  - verify the traces on the motherboard haven't been scratched while you were working on it
•  - the Intel CPU has had the RAM controller integrated since Gen1 and it may be bad if it was seated incorrectly or had the cooler put on too tight
•  - verify all the power connectors are in place and seated tightly. The 24 pin and the CPU connector especially.

 

I got into the habit of always installing one in my builds. Such a cheap diagnostic tool that comes in handy more often than people think. Good call.  

I actually had one from an old case that was recycled and installed it in the rig I built and later gave to my niece. The link was for the 5 pack so I will have a few left for this and other builds.

[Draco1962]

No POST beeps. Dammit.  I tested the PSU with my Thermaltake Dr. III and output is as expected and nominal. 

I found the same motherboard and CPU combo used on eBay for right around $100.00, including 16GB total DDR3 RAM. Why the same? Cost (triple and more for more current kit), familiarity and trust in the hardware.

I plan to do a breadbox build outside of the case to confirm all is working as expected.

If all works, then I will add the new cooler, test, then move the assembly to the case.

[Draco1962]

The new used mobo & CPU arrived and tested A-OK!  Temps at idle about 27C. Looking good!

 

[ClassicGMR]

27 at idle is good for an i7. Nice!

[Draco1962]

21 hours ago, ClassicGMR said:

27 at idle is good for an i7. Nice!

For this build I am using Thermal Grizzly Duronaut. It seems to work better than others I have used in the past.

[Draco1962]

New dilemma:

https://forums.gameex.com/forums/topic/31559-windows-10-iot-enterprise-ltsc-or-linux/#comment-226195

[Draco1962]

I've decided to stick it out with Win 11 Pro 25H2 for now. Finally worked out a few minor issues associated with very slow starts after a few BIOS tweaks to set the boot drive to UEFI only instead of both UEFI and Legacy. BIG improvement!

Also added a new pair of Xbox game pads - Xbox Wireless Gaming Controller (2025) – Robot White – Play on Xbox, Windows, Android, iOS, FireTV Sticks, Smart TVs, VR Headsets and OIVO Charger with 2 Rechargeable Batteries for Xbox One/Xbox Series X/S Controller, Charging Station with 2 x 4320mWh (2x1800mAh) Rechargeable Batteries (Xbox Series X & S/Xbox One) to contrast & compliment the black asthetic of the case.

[ClassicGMR]

On 10/13/2025 at 4:36 PM, Draco1962 said:

I've decided to stick it out with Win 11 Pro 25H2 for now.

I have yet to try anything Linux related since I went through my Raspberry Pi phase. I'll be sticking with whatever junk Microsoft throws at me until I die or , Microsoft starts doing their OS as a subscription or someone comes up with a better solution. It just works. I'm getting old and cranky and just want it to work.  

On 10/13/2025 at 4:36 PM, Draco1962 said:

Also added a new pair of Xbox game pads ... to contrast & compliment the black asthetic of the case.

I'm the same but different.  I would have purchased black controllers or gaming controllers like the Pac-Man controller I used in my portable game case. The white is a nice contrast but I like matching. Nothing wrong with what you have though. Love it.

[Draco1962]

The white contrasting with the black always gives me a Storm Trooper vibe, which I have always liked -  their apparent lack of ability to hit the broadside of a Corellian freighter aside - since first seeing them in Star Wars in '77.

[Draco1962]

Upgraded to Be Quiet! 850w 12M PSU as the original PSU was noisy. Now all quiet and black - like my heart. 🫥

[Draco1962]

UPDATE: Added WD BLACK 4TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Gaming Hard Drive - WDBSLA0040HNC-NRWM - Since this will eventually be my "go-to" rig for retro PC titles, MAME, and other emulators, I needed a little "spinning rust" for ROMS, media, backups, and the like.