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X-Arcade Tankstick Zero-Lag Tri-Mode PCB Upgrade


Draco1962

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Apparently this control board has been available from X-Arcade for a while: 

Zero-Lag Tri-Mode PCB Upgrade (PCB ONLY - $40 US) 

or

X-Arcade Build Your Own Arcade Trimode Kit (Includes Cables - $40 US)

It replaces the control board within all older sticks and allows the device to output in keyboard, Dinput, and Xinput.

For the Tankstick, this is huge as both Player One and Two will appear as two Xbox 360 controllers. Since many frontends and newer emulators recognize these controllers, setup is minimized.

Need keyboard inputs for MAME? Slide the switch to convert back to keyboard mode.

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  • Draco1962 changed the title to X-Arcade Tankstick Zero-Lag Tri-Mode PCB Upgrade

I have had this board in my drawer for probably a year. Just can’t bring myself to tear the stick down to install it. I’m lazy and it works fine.

I’ll do it eventually… 🤷‍♂️😁

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2 hours ago, ClassicGMR said:

I have had this board in my drawer for probably a year. Just can’t bring myself to tear the stick down to install it. I’m lazy and it works fine.

I’ll do it eventually… 🤷‍♂️😁

I updated the original post to include the "DIY" kit that has the same PCB and cables. As for getting around to it... I have too many projects and too many things like life and job vying for the limited hours in the day, so I get that!

  • Haha 1
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  • 2 weeks later...

Has taken FOREVER to get on the road and should be here by 4/20. What are they doing? Walking it to Jacksonville FL from California?

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The PCB arrived a day earlier than estimated. I will install it soon. I have "heard" rumor that there's an alternative to manually switching between the modes but have yet to find evidence.

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Looks like I will be troubleshooting with X-Arcade. I attempted to update the firmware after I noticed the Xinput and Dinput was not working. The firmware flash utility is not finding the device to try to flash it... so....

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Initial triage via email from X-Arcade is pointing to a possible wire break or broken solder joint at the 4 point switch. It was not recognized by the firmware flashing tool. Also some issues with the Player 2 joystick and some of the buttons on that side.

I examined the joints and they are solid. I then put back the original PCB and same issues noted on Player 2 side.

Due to the very short wiring lengths to the PCB it is likely that I have screwed up a wire or two. But where? Nothing appears loose or detached.

So I may have to pay for replacement wiring for the entire thing. Not happy.

  • Sad 1
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Oof. That sucks! :(

Would it be cheaper to put in a brand new set of zero delay sticks and buttons from Amazon? Unsure of cost so just a thought I had.

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Also if you need one I still have my zero delay board. I can send it to you since I seriously will never do the exchange. I bought the new Tankstick with the spinners installed and am in process of selling my old Tankstick. Should end up costing me $25 for the upgrade overall.

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I think the PCB is good. I have isolated the issue to J4 and not either PCB. 

319.jpg

I may spring for the new Tank Stick as I have a birthday coming up in June if I can't get it fixed.

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In the mean time, I have purchased a replacement wiring harness so will be replacing (hopefully) just the J4 wiring (I really, REALLY DO NOT WANT TO REWIRE EVERY FRICKEN THING!). 

Stay tuned...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally got around to replacing the Tankstick with the Tankstick Max. The spinners they used are incredible. I played Tempest and Tac-Scan for over an hour the other night. I can't wait to get Arkanoid set right. :)

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Do you know what kind of spinners they are using? The table I adapted and created here may be of help in setting them up:

 

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I can’t find any information on this. Not sure what model they use.
 

Usually someone would have had a teardown video by now. I’m kind of surprised.

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4 hours ago, ClassicGMR said:

I watched that video. How'd I miss that??

Easy miss. He talks a little faster and softer (to me at least) when making note of the brand. I had to replay a few times.

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