tthurman Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I got a little overzealous while cutting lengths for my control panel, and well, there pretty much exact to the hinged metal part. Due to this, and the fact I'd rather not have to re-cut everything, I and am considering added some led's with hopes the light will "bleed" through a small gap for a pinstripe type appearance.I thought about mixing several of these Jumbo LED Flahsers, but thought I check with everyone here first.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Think I need a picture to fully understand?.Those kits do look fun though, but soldering more than a few may get a bit dull towards the end - found lots of cheaper versions on ebay but none fully stuffed.Colour changing strips are fun too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthurman Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 I not really stuck on those particular models, but it would seem they might work pretty good.This is part of my never ending Star Wars control panel, and while it's not finshed, you can see how close I am to the right and left extremities.The whole panel below is attached to the metal dashboard, so while it opens in the same fashion as the original, at the same time it doesn't.the back and top pieces are cut, but I'm plate joining them so no outward screws show, and this isn't done. When assembled it will be hollow on the inside from right to left.When that is all pieced toghther I will build end caps for the right and left, and that's where the problem with being to exact comes in. The moveable yoke panel will be wedged to tight to allow free movement. My idea is to use L brackets and use create a slim space between the end caps, using a spacer, 1/16 / 2mm. This is where the led would show through, creating a sort of a wrap all around the right and left sides. My thinking is to paint the inside white to get good reflection, and then put red on one side and blue on the other, or one of each on both sides, alternating the upper and lower colors on each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 How about making some contoured edge support pieces/diffusers from acrylic (clear,red,or blue) and then edge lighting it?.Kind of like combining these two pics....Maybe buy one of those LED kits and just use it as a timing circuit - so instead of soldering on the diodes passing the signal to a couple of relays that powers a pair of LED strips?. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthurman Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 No doubt that is very cool!One of the problems I've had all along is the dashboard is awkward as hell, and working with it in general has been anything but fun. If I didn't already have new prints from this old game, I would probably ditch it. I saw your build (which is really cool) after I purchased everything and have thought many times "why didn't I do something like that!", but oh well! That said, I do think I can just trace my current panels out now, and custom cut a piece of Lexan, something that's gave me fits in the past.My ignorance is showing here, but how do you light it to make it spread that way? How thick does the lexan need to be? Ideally I want something that I can plug in with a molex connector and run from my power supply, as my panel will be interchangeable with others..FWIWThis was taking a decidely "build" tone, so I thought it best be moved to the rigs section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthurman Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ah, new ideas!Of course this will drag things out even longer..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ah, new ideas!Of course this will drag things out even longer..... Yeah that is the method, this pic is from the same build from here....http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139178.0.htmlBut if all you want to do is bridge a small gap any opaque plastic tube or container/lunchbox would work.If you need a hand with a circuit to flash some LED strips let me know - although I have no clue as to the postage costs to the M-78?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 There is also ELwire or tape that works well - used it myself a couple of times, although I have also diffused LEDs with hot glue before now . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tthurman Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ah, something like this may be easier to incorporate into my build.The flashing isn't a big deal to me, just came up in a quick search, and whilie was okay with it, it's cerainly not a necessity.Thanks for the suggestions, you've certainly gave me some ideas that weren't on my radar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 You are welcome and yes that is the stuff.Adafruit have a good selection (and always have a lot of other cool stuff) and even stock a sound activated inverter.The blue sections on my bezel are EL tape under some tinted plexy (formed around a saucepan whilst heated with a hot air gun).Anyway crack on - I want to see how it comes out! . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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