Happ Monitor Bezel

[jeffremiller]

I wandered across this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/PLASTIC-MONITOR-BEZEL-...1QQcmdZViewItem

It looks a lot like the HAPP:

http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/49010500.htm

But Happ does not list it as trimable for a 20".

I have a 20" LCD, does anyone know if this can be trimmed to fit. Monitor is 12x16 or 20" diagonal.

[bkenobi]

The bezel appears to be designed for a standard CRT monitor, so it will have a curved contact area. Your LCD is flat, so it will not fit flush. If you trim the bezel smaller, it is possible that it will cut into the curved region and look a bit odd. If I were you I would just use a peice of black cardboard/cardstock/construction paper/etc and cut it to the size of your LCD and put that behind glass. I ran into the same situation with my second cab which I installed a flat tube CRT in and that's the solution I came up with. Looks good to me!

[jeffremiller]

The bezel appears to be designed for a standard CRT monitor, so it will have a curved contact area. Your LCD is flat, so it will not fit flush. If you trim the bezel smaller, it is possible that it will cut into the curved region and look a bit odd. If I were you I would just use a peice of black cardboard/cardstock/construction paper/etc and cut it to the size of your LCD and put that behind glass. I ran into the same situation with my second cab which I installed a flat tube CRT in and that's the solution I came up with. Looks good to me!

Thanks... I realize this is a bit off topic for this forum.... but I figured this was the best place I knew to ask. You guys have been really helpful when it comes to Games and the Cabinet pix pointed me in the right direction.

I guess you confirmed what I already knew.... No easy way out of this LCD thing.

I will probably go to Hobby Lobby and get some matting to start. Thanks for the info.

[bkenobi]

Just a quick note. When I purchased my matte board, I bought the darkest black that I could in the thickest material available (I think it's 8 ply) so it would be REALLY rigid and resist bending. It doesn't bend, but when I was cutting it out, I was hating life! It is so thick that it dulls new Exacto blades within a pass or two. As a result, the edge did not finish as nicely as I had hoped. My suggestion would be get something that is much thinner to make cutting easier.

The bezel material Atari used was very thin and pretty flexible. I would say that if you are going to a craft store, get a large peice of cardstock that is the same color all the way through (many are just colored on the outer surface and white in the middle). That way, when it's cut out, you won't be able to see cut lines and the cuts should be much cleaner with less hanging fiber.

Good luck!

[Adultery]

I cut my black cardboard (which was fr mounting photos and art and such... Seems like 8-ply is a good estimate.) with a Stanley knife, sanded the edges slightly with a fine grade of sandpaper, and I used a model paint pen to color the edges. Then I sprayed a clear gloss on the 'cardboard' and applied the decals. It looks great and will resist the wear and tear of sunlight and such.

Construction paper or what have you is just too flimsy and thin and fades over time.

[iano]

You could always use smoked plexiglass (grey tinted) and dispense with the bezel altogether. That way you wont be able to see anything behind the plexiglass except the picture displayed from your monitor.

[bkenobi]

I had at one point thought about using tinting material for windows from Home Depot. I thought I could apply 1 layer to the entire glass and then up to 2 or 3 more to the bezel area. That way there would be no chance of light leakage showing through. I ended up using the bezel just because I already had the matte board that I didn't use on the first project. If I had it to do over or end up redoing it, I will probably do that since I think it will end up with a much nicer look. Also, I know it won't fade since it's designed to be in sunny windows!

[jthompson]

I had at one point thought about using tinting material for windows from Home Depot. I thought I could apply 1 layer to the entire glass and then up to 2 or 3 more to the bezel area. That way there would be no chance of light leakage showing through. I ended up using the bezel just because I already had the matte board that I didn't use on the first project. If I had it to do over or end up redoing it, I will probably do that since I think it will end up with a much nicer look. Also, I know it won't fade since it's designed to be in sunny windows!

I have smoked glass on my cab, I really like it. The only drawbacks are reflections off the glass during certain times of the day make it hard to see sometimes. Also if you are using an lcd topgun, it won't track very well in bright conditions. On the plus side, it looks awesome! I wouldn't go the cheap route though and use plexi. Buy the real thing and have it cut to fit exactly, the glass shop will cut it any size you want and they will even sand the sharp edges down for you for a small fee. Plexi tends to get scratched and scuffed too easily which will make the glare even worse. I think I paid about $60 for mine. Its called greylite #14.

Jay T

[iano]

I have smoked glass on my cab, I really like it. The only drawbacks are reflections off the glass during certain times of the day make it hard to see sometimes. Also if you are using an lcd topgun, it won't track very well in bright conditions. On the plus side, it looks awesome! I wouldn't go the cheap route though and use plexi. Buy the real thing and have it cut to fit exactly, the glass shop will cut it any size you want and they will even sand the sharp edges down for you for a small fee. Plexi tends to get scratched and scuffed too easily which will make the glare even worse. I think I paid about $60 for mine. Its called greylite #14.

Jay T

Thanks Jay for the info I have got round to cab building yet but if it looks better i'll use it. It will be easier for me to buy locally as well.

Cheers,

ian.

[bkenobi]

I can confirm the problem with guns on my cabinet. I have real glass and it tends to throw the aim off just slightly. I don't have tinting, but when shooting around the edges of the screen, I tend to miss a lot more than I think I should (or I just suck )